Before I start in earnest, a couple of cultural things we have observed while here in Italy. We have realised how over governed Australia is. Italy doesn't seem to legislate what is common sense. The laws rely on people doing the right thing, and coming down hard when they don't. When I asked what the drink driving laws were, I was told "just don't hit anyone or anything!" There is no random testing, yet they have police layed on! Drinking generally is not a problem. Alcohol is not taxed to death. It is cheap, plentiful, available everywhere, yet doesn't seem abused. We have been told that it is a cultural thing. Wine is consumed with food, and to be drunk brings shame on a family. The people don't need alcohol to have a good time. On the other hand, there is tobacco. State owned and cheap, smoking is an epidemic. Especially among young women. Gone is the chubby Italian Mama, she has been replaced by a bag of bones walking down the street in a cloud of white smoke! The women are convinced that smoking will keep them thin, and light up before during and after dinner. Men have always smoked. The thing we like least about Italy is all the smoking in restaurants. We are so not used to it. Italy has a huge health problem waiting down the road!
In Turin we collected our brand new hire car, an Opel Mocca, which is a lovely little car. Once we worked out it is fitted with one of these auto cut off systems, and you need to depress the clutch to make it start again, we were out of the car park and on our way into the Piedmont district of Italy, and the Italian Alps. We were headed for our first couple of nights in a town called Domodossola, which was a bit of a disappointment really. The small hotel we stayed at was nice, and the owner Paulo, could not do enough for us. His breakfast, served individually, was his pride & joy, as he presented the local, ham, cheese & home made jams. It was really nice. Domodossola itself, seems to be a jumping off point for the Alps and winter sports, and along the way as we passed by Lake Maggiore, we had called in at Stresa & Baveno right on the lake, and decided we would move ourselves down by the lake.
Before that, we took a lovely drive up to Santa Maria Maggiore, which was a delightful little alpine town. We stopped for coffee, and found an incredible little Patisiceria, which had a fantastic array of little cakes. We really liked the quiet ambience of this town, which had some grand villas, and was beautifully kept. We saw the first of the old stone roofed houses, wondering how on earth, the roof timbers could support all that stone! The tourist office girl, had warned us about not going too far past here on this road, as it was very narrow. We had planned to drive through to Locarno, but when we were run off the road by a crazy woman, we decided discretion was the better part of valour! Before turning around, we did find a rare, modern Basilica In fact, there was a small old 12th century church, added to by a huge 20th century Basilica. It was the Santuaria della Madonna del Sangue. Apparently, black in 1494, a woman was hit in the head by a rock at a big event, and then continued to bleed from the wound for 20 days. This was deemed a miracle, presumably because she didn't die of blood loss! Anyway, seemed a good reason for another big church! It was nice inside with its modern stained glass windows, and huge blue silk banners. That night, down in the main square, we had the worst meal we have had in Italy! We found an Italian place that made bad pizza! Didn't think it possible! The service was equally as bad, something we have found almost non existent in Italy.
We were glad to move onto Baveno. Carolyn had found us Hotel Eden, right on the shores of Lake Maggiore. Here we wouldn't need the car, as the ferry terminal was right across the street. Our room looked out over the lake, and the three famous Borromee Islands. A short distance down the lake is the five star tourist resort town of Stresa, with its amazing hotels lined up along the lake front. This is serious opulence, and the way the lawns and gardens are displayed, has to be seen to be believed. We walked through the foyer of the Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee, which was dripping with gold & antiques. Absolutely divine! Stresa was nice to walk around with its cafes and boutique shops. For our first night in Baveno, we decided to dine at our hotel restaurant right across the street on the lake edge. The waiter was a real character, and we enjoyed an unhurried dinner of Melon & Prosciutto, followed by a simple pork schnitzel for John and an equally simple pasta with garlic & basil, for Carolyn. We shared an excellent Tiramisu for dessert. Whilst enjoying dinner we got talking to a German couple, who suggested we have dinner on Isle Di Pescatori. This would prove to be excellent advice.
Next morning, we had a sleep in and we were last for breakfast. We had decided to do the Three Islands, using the excellent Public Ferry Service. The ticket price, included entry to the palaces on two of the islands. First stop was Isola Bella. This is one of the most wonderful things we have seen in Italy. To quote from the brochure, "Isola Bella, which resembles a ship sailing north, dominates the middle of Lake Maggiore. It is so small its harmonious complexity seems impossible to describe, a beautiful array studied & built with a masterly combination of human efforts, and the contribution of nature. At the prow, the Baroque Palazzo Borromeo overlooks a little fishing village, while the Italian style gardens, famous for their blooms from March to October, stretch out like a natural extension of the palace towards the opposite end of the island, in a sequence of terraces, flowerbeds, statues, fountains, and charming architectural perspectives & panoramas." It is truly magnificent, and being in full bloom made it all the better. We have never see displays of hydrangeas like we have seen around the lakes. Napoleon & Josehine slept one night here, much to the displeasure of the owners! Apparently, he turned up unannounced, demanded everything, and left the next day, leaving the place like a pig sty! We just wandered around the gardens, taking them in from every direction. There were white peacocks strutting around, and the most incredible statues, many featuring the family emblem, the Unicorn. The treasures inside the palace were equally as impressive, with a tapestry room, all made exclusively for the family with lots of unicorns, the equal of any we have seen.
We boarded the boat and headed for our next island, Isolo di Pescatori. This tends to be more the working island, with hotels and restaurants and shops. Daytrippers in their boats, call in for lunch. It has a very lazy feel. We had a simple lunch of salad and lots of cold water. It was still very hot. In fact all of Europe is experiencing a heat wave, and this one not caused by the Greeks! After lunch we were off to Isolo Madre, the third, and largest island. It is a huge Botanial Garden, with incredible trees and expansive lawns. Some of the trees are famous, including a huge & very rare, Himalayan Cypress, deemed to be the most famous tree in Italy, which was uprooted by a Tornado in 2011. The rescue of the tree was an incredible fete, and it appears to be paying off, with the 300 year old tree, all cabled up and looking quite healthy again. The gardens are lovely, with many sections pointing the way to another great view across the lake. There is a much less impressive palace, which has a wonderful vista from every window. It also includes some great artworks, most from artists we were not familiar with. One last boat ride and we were back in Baleno, where it was time for a rest, before dinner on the island.
Our island dinner booking was unique. We were going to restaurant Belvedere, and were told to be at the ferry wharf at 7.30pm, where a boat would pick us up. Sure enough, at 7.30pm, the water taxi arrived and whisked us out to Isolo di Pescatori. The captain pointed us in the right direction, and told us he would be there on the hour and on the half hour, whenever we were ready to return. The restaurant was a postcard, all white table cloths and poor waiters in black tie, sweltering in the heat. Our table was at the water's edge, and a welcome glass of Prosecco was poured as we settled in. The specialities were all about the fish from the lake. We shared an entree of the delightful trofie pasta with pesto. This is a Genovese specialty which we loved, so we're glad to see it on a menu again. Carolyn tried a light white fish, while John went for the Trio of Lake Fish. Don't ask me what the fish were, but believe me when I tell you they were delicious, and wonderfully cooked and presented. We enjoyed a local white wine, recommended by the waiter, and had a night to remember watching the activities of the lake unfold in front of us. The reataurant was very busy, but we were left alone to enjoy our evening. At 10.00pm our boatman was there as promised, and we took a slow trip home via a couple of other stops to drop off some staff.
From Baveno, we headed around to the better known, Lake Como. We were booked at Menaggio, halfway up the lake, opposite Bellagio & Varenna. Our little hotel is just out of town & up the hill, and our room has a decent veranda, and panoramic views across the lake to Varenna. It is lovely, the only drawback being no air conditioning. The family running the hotel are so obliging and helpful. Menaggio is a lovely little town, with a busy square along the lake front. This is the centre of eating & drinking. The day we arrived, a market was in full swing along the lake. Parking is always horrendous, but we managed to find a spot. Menaggio is full of tourists, many of whom are German on motorcycles. The place is so German, that most menus are in Italian, German & English. We walked the markets, under looming storm clouds, and debated where we would eat dinner, as almost everything is designed for outdoor eating. The market stall holders couldn't decide whether it was going to be all bluff, but a couple of huge claps of thunder, and flashes of lightning soon had them scurrying in all directions! We found a spot in under the umbrellas, and managed to keep most of the rain off our Pizza! Once the storm had passed it was pleasantly cooler, and we enjoyed the stroll along the lake to the car.
Next day, we had decided to take the slow boat, the Milano, down the lake to Como. The storm had cleared away the haze, but it hadn't taken the sting out of the sun. Sitting out on the back deck under the canvas shade, it was one of the most lovely & leisurely days we have had. God knows, and who cares, how many stops we made. It was 2.5 hours each way of scenic bliss! We lost count of the villas. You don't get to see most from the road, but there is no hiding from the boat. Near Lenno, we sailed past one of the most famous villas on the lake, Villa Balbianelo. It's position on the point is incredible, and it is no wonder it has featured in many movies. Remember Daniel Craig stepping out onto the balcony looking out over the lake in Casino Royale. It is quite a sight, with the sculptured green gardens a feature. Near Tremezzo, is the world famous Villa Carlotta. Not a bad kind of wedding present! More on that later, as we did a tour. One of the last stops before Como, is Cernobbio, where you find the also very famous Villa d'Este, one of the most elegant & famous hotels in the world. Wherever you look on this boat trip, it is beautiful. We arrived in a hot and crowded Como. We decided we wouldn't have enough time to ride the Funicular to the top of Como, that would have to wait, so we just wandered the main piazza & had a light lunch, before boarding the boat for the return trip.
The return trip was equally as good. We got the same seats, so admired the other side of the lake all the way home. Back in Mennagio, we found a table at our favourite bar. The happy little waiter wandered over & said "uno Aperal Spritz & uno birre grande!" Bloody mind reader! This was on top of yesterday, when I first asked if the beer was really cold, as often it is not. The reply came," if the beer is not cold it won't come out my door!" When I downed the first one quite quickly, he came by and collected the glass with " a salty breakfast? I get another!" I knew we would be friends for rest of the stay!!! Having been plied with chips & peanuts, we weren't that hungry. We both craved something unItalian, so when we saw chicken & chips on a menu, decided that would be the go. It was true to its word, a whole chicken & mountain of chips!!! We waddled home, took a cold shower and were just getting into bed, when the fireworks started. Nothing to do with John & Carolyn! They were celebrating the 4th July, so first Bellagio, then Varenna put on an incredible light show we watched from our veranda. Very Impressive.
Sunday, we took ourselves down to Tremezzo for a tour of Villa Carlotta. The Villa itself is an impressive place, with rooms full of interesting treasures, both old & new. But it is outside that Villa Carlotta excels with its incredible gardens. Sadly for us, the azalea & rhododendrons had finished, as there are just so many, but the hydrangeas and other annuals still made a show, and then there are the huge forests of trees and bamboo. We continued our drive along the lake towards Como. Carolyn was on George Clooney watch as she was armed with the news that his villa was around Laglio. Cleverly, the rich people have seen the road diverted from their section of the lake, but we found the narrow winding way down to the lake. Sadly no George, but we parked our little Opel among the BMW & Mercs, and wandered into a little cafe opposite the lake. We ordered a platter of cold meats & a platter of grilled veggies, which were just the thing for a light lunch on the lake. It was uncrowded & very pleasant under the trees. These small family run places are our favourites, and this one was a beauty, even without George!
We found our way into crowded Como, parked and headed for the Funicular. This is a fairly new ride, but it was oppressive! The aircon didn't work, and as we crowded in like sardines, I am amazed no one passed out on the 7 minute ride! We all got off and headed for water & gelato! It is an impressive view though. The trip down was worse! When we reached the bottom, I was in need of the loo, and to cap it all off, found the filthiest toilet in Italy. It was a sewer! The people who run this whole thing should be ashamed. We all should have been given our money back. The only person who should be applauded was the lady running the kiosk for keeping up an endless supply of ice cold water! Home in Menaggio, my little mate had the drinks on the way as soon as he spied us, and boy were they welcome. We were approached by an English couple, who amazed us by asking, "we can hear you are Australian, but are fascinated as to why you would want to come to Lake Como?" I was a bit stunned really, and asked where he expected Australians would travel to. That stumped him! When I asked him why he came, he told us it was close & cheap! I told him neither of those reasons were on our list! We left them looking bewildered. That night, Carolyn had found another quiet family run restaurant tucked away in a corner. It was booked out every night, but tonight we have booked. The local lake fish was just beautiful, and to our pleasant surprise, the main course came with a side dish, so I picked chips (what else do you have with fish!), and Carolyn picked beans, and we had a very nice, well balanced, dinner, all at a reasonable price.
Monday, we were back on the ferries. We can buy a daily Central Lake ticket, that allows us to go to Varenna, Bellagio, Tremezzo & Lenno. We started with breakfast in Varenna at a gorgeous little cafe. In the morning, Varenna is the shady side of the lake, so it was shady & cool. I had my first ever Pistacchio Milkshake, and it was fantastic. I was having a raving for things cold, so had yoghurt with fresh peaches. Carolyn was having her egg craving day, so went for the bacon & eggs, which came out, packed onto the smallest plate we have ever seen! It was delicious, but no room for toast! We explore Varenna, which is a lovely little town. From the ferry, you walk the Lovers Lane to the village. It is a very nice little town.
Back on the ferry, next stop was brassy Bellagio. Much bigger than the other towns, and lots of designer shops & five star hotels. It is surprisingly hilly as well. We took the little train around town, which was really out of town, but still nice. It only lasted 20 minutes. We trudged up one hilly street of shops & down another. Found it hard to get a cold bottle of water, and settled on Gelato, but even the gelato shops were struggling to keep the ice cream from melting! The sun was really beating down on Bellagio, so we decided to get back on a ferry to Menaggio, and head home for a rest. We are both still barking away, and John is huffing & puffing from the slightest exhaustion. The heat isn't helping either. At least the nightly coughing has stopped! We stopped into the supermarket to buy fresh fruit & yoghurt for breakfast. We loaded up with figs, which are plentiful and so cheap. Rested, we headed back to town for dinner. Parking was a problem, so we decided to try one of the restaurants out of town on the lake. We found La Groppa, and it was very nice. We both just had a bowl of pasta, mine was just with pancetta, tomato, garlic & chili, while Carolyn's was a spicy tomato with prawns, which was the pick. The house wine was a lovely Pinot Grigio, which went with it all so well. We enjoyed our wine, watching the passing parade on the lake. We were entertained by a guy fishing on one of several little platforms out over the lake. He was very successful , catching 15 or 20 little lake fish, while we ate dinner. When he got thirsty, he ordered a beer from the restaurant, and they just passed it over the fence!
Our final day in Mennagio is devoted to chores. We have a pile of washing and lots of blogging to do. We enjoyed our breakfast of figs & peaches on our veranda before attacking the day. We did take a short drive north of Menaggio to the small towns of Dongo & Gravedona. It was in Dongo, that Mussolini his mistress and many of his ministers were captured on April 27th, trying to flee Italy into Switzerland. The ministers were executed in the town square, and Mussolini & his mistress suffered the same fate next day. From Gravedona we climbed up to the tiny hilltop village of Peglio. There is nothing at Peglio, but the views over the lake are just spectacular. We headed back to attend to our chores, and for lunch we just went to the market and bought a melon and fresh prosciutto. Add some Crossini and it is a perfect summer lunch. It seems even hotter today! Sorry all you people freezing back home! It is time to take another cold shower, and head down to the village. I can almost hear my little mate pouring my birre grande!
For our last night in Menaggio we went back to the little family run restaurant in the square. The food there had been excellent and we both felt like fish again. We booked a table, and both had the most wonderful butterflied lake trout, all almond crusted. The house Rosata (Rose), went perfectly with it. After dinner we headed back into the square to have a farewell Limoncello with our barman friend. We said our good byes, and could hear the rumblings of distant thunder and flashes of lightning. We sat on our veranda, watching and listening but it was all bluster. We could certainly do with a big storm to cool it all down. Tomorrow, we head off into the Dolomites. Won't be long before we meet up with Jill, who has arrived in Italy and is enjoying Pompei at present.
No comments:
Post a Comment