Steep Point

Last chance to bail out.

Steep Point is the most westerly point in Australia. It is remote, and it is desolate. When we came down the coast last year, access was closed. Our conversation with our neighbour Steve, who had just returned from a day trip out there, convinced us that it was a once in a lifetime chance we just couldn't miss. Steve, who also drives a Landcruiser, same model as ours, assured us we would have no problems negotiating the tough track. So, armed with our recovery gear, picnic lunch and plenty of water, we were ready to go.

Down with the tyre pressure.

The good gravel road.

The road was a good gravel, not so good gravel, and soft sand. Tyre pressure is critical, as a puncture is what will wreck your day. We lowered our tyre pressure down to around the recommended 22 psi, which makes the tyre more pliable for the sharp stones, and stops them digging into the soft sand, and off we went. We headed out along the Useless Loop Road. Shark Bay Resources has a salt making operation out along the road, so for the first 100 kms, the road is pretty good.

The road becomes a sandy track.

Constructed salt lakes.

 We could get along at 90 to 100 kph, a speed we find keeps the old girl above the corrugations. Too slow on the corrugated roads shakes the crap out of the car and the occupants! After their turnoff, the road deteriorates into soft sand, and narrows considerably. The salt mining process is quite interesting. They construct huge pens in which the higher than normal saline water gathers, and then scoop or harvest the salt as it forms. Some of the rock work is quite extensive. The scenery is depressing at first. Just salt pans and desert with thorny shrubs. Not an animal in sight. There isn't much sign of rain here! We are soon among the sand hills, and it is here that the road becomes a track of just two wheel tracks in deep, thick sand. You just don't want to meet someone coming 

The Track winds along the water.

Miles and miles of sand.

the other way! At the top of some of the dunes, it is so steep that all you can see is the bull bar and blue sky, then over the top you go, and plunge down the other side. This is where meeting someone would be a huge problem! We come across two guys with boat trailers, who have a flat tyre, but are OK. Talk about keen fishermen! We reach a plateau on top of the sand dunes and are surprised how extensive they are . Miles and miles of sand. From here, we work our way down to the waters edge, and then the track follows the water for quite some distance. We stop by the water and have our morning cuppa. We could be the only two people on earth. The water is that

The camp sites along Shelter Bay.

Sea eagles.

 wonderful turquoise blue, and so clear. The guys with the boat trailers rattle by, and shout and wave  a greeting. We reach the Ranger Station. Yes there is a Ranger who lives out here. It is a couple who must love their solitude, and each other's company! We talk to the Ranger lady, who tells us what is and isn't open. We don't have to pay a fee as we have our annual WA National Parks pass. We spy an eagles nest up on one of the masts at the ranger station, and to our surprise an eagle is sitting atop the nest. Just as I'm ready to snap away, his mate arrives. Wow, what a sight!! Just past the Ranger Station are the camp sites you need to book in advance. It is a long

We made it!!

More soft sand.

 way to come and find the House Full sign is lit! The camp sites are well patronised by fishermen, as the fishing is supposedly great. Why wouldn't it be. Pristine conditions and no people! The track doesn't get any better, as we traverse the last 9 kms to our destination. We round a sand dune and spot the Steep Point Lighthouse, which is really just a beacon, and here we are at Australia's most westerly point. We can now boast that we have made it to all 4 extremities of the Australian continent! The scenery is rugged and dramatic. To

our surprise, there is a motor cruiser just off the coast, having come out of Shark Bay and

Like a shag on a rock.

The rugged coast at Steep Point.

headed south to God knows where. We headed back along the track in search of one of the quiet bays to have our picnic. We found a spot, and sat on the tail gate, happily gazing out across the water. A large turtle swam by, and the cormorants were having a grand time in the sparkling waters. The two sea eagles soared overhead on the wind currents. What an unbelievable experience. We packed up the picnic and headed for home, but not before a stop in at False Entrance and the Blowholes. There is actually a track that runs along the coastline from Steep

The Blowholes at False Bay.

The T intersection.

Point to False Bay, but the Ranger had warned us against using it. The recent rains had washed most of the sand off the track, exposing thousands of sharp rocks, and a puncture or two was a certainty. We took the safe and sandy way back to the T Intersection, and out to False Bay. Here the country is even more rugged and the cliffs are much higher. As we parked the Landcruiser beside the cliff edge, and walked across to the edge, the scene was just breathtaking. As you looked down, the sea was a cauldron. Whilst there wasn't a big swell

Water rushes back down
the Blowholes.

Water cascades off the rock shelf.

 running it was enough to give us a show, as the ocean ran in through the tunnels and whooshed up through a number of openings, then just as quickly rushed back down the holes like a huge drain. We are again the only two people on earth, witnessing nature at her incredible best. We dragged ourselves away from the scene and started to wend our way back to Hamelin Station. Steve had been right. It was an opportunity not to be missed, and we had enjoyed a day like few others on our journey so far. We have joined a lucky few who have been to Australia's most

The dramatic cliffs at the Blowholes.

western extremity. We made it back home around 4.00pm. We had seen about 6 other cars all day. Steve met us with a smile and his compressor, and while we pumped up our tyres with his portable compressor, we shared a drink and compared Steep Point stories. What a day!! Carolyn reckons you won't be getting the smile off my face for quite some time, and I think she'll be smiling just as long. We enjoyed our last Happy Hour at Hamelin Station, and two tired little explorers were early to bed that night!