Ballarat

Ballarat's wonderful old architecture.

Ballarat is a beautiful Victorian rural city, born out of the gold rush of the 1850's. It is only 75kms from Melbourne. Due to the riches of the gold rush, the town boasts wonderful old heritage commercial and Government buildings, as well as theatres, private schools and so many magnificent old homes and gardens. Add to that the wide avenues and the parklands, Lake Wendouree and the Botanical Gardens, the political history, Sovereign Hill and the Eureka Stockade, and you have weeks of exploring to do. We have 4 days!!! We will need to be selective!

The Arch of The Avenue of Honour.

Spring at Lake Wendouree.

Wonderful wysteria in a private home.

We are staying at the Big4 Ballarat Goldfields Holiday Park, just 300 metres from Sovereign Hill, and less than 5 minutes drive to the centre of town. It is a lovely park with great facilities, and again we have a huge corner site.The weather is cool days and very cold nights. We started out with a drive around town to familiarise ourselves with the layout of town. We are immediately struck by the wonderful buildings and the wide avenues. The main street, Sturt Street, has a wide nature strip down the centre, full of spring flowers. As we drove along Sturt Street out of the CBD, we passed the many grand old private school campuses, and churches and countless huge old homes with equally huge gardens, all beautifully manicured. Finally we arrive at the huge Arch that marks the beginning of The Avenue of Honour, which is lined with trees, each one a memorial to a fallen soldier with a plaque bearing their name. It runs for miles and is like no other we have ever seen. A drive along the shore of Lake Wendouree shows us more grand homes and gardens, and lots of well maintained Boat Houses, some privately owned, others owned by clubs and schools. For those that can remember, Lake Wendouree was the rowing venue for the 1956 Melbourne Olympics, and the course is still in use, or should I say back in use after a period when the lake was dry due to the long drought of the early 2000's. 

At Ballarat Botanical Gardens.

Poor Man's Orchid display.

We stopped at the entrance to the Botanical Gardens and headed in for a look around. There are a  number of glass houses from the 19th century. One holds a fantastic collection of marble statues donated by a wealthy benefactor. We headed for the new modern looking glass house, and once inside were presented with a visual extravaganza of colour. The display of "Poor Man's Orchids" (sorry but I'm not even going to try and spell the botanical name), is breathtaking.

Carolyn among the orchids.

Back out among the gardens, we walk through avenues of huge American Redwoods, and so many other species of huge old trees. Interspersed are the blossoms and new green foliage of spring. Even if your thumb is brown, this is impressive. A walk along the Avenue of Prime Ministers was nostalgic. All those great people cast in bronze and surrounded by colour. At the end of the avenue was a concrete slab on the earth. My hopes were raised but then dashed as I read that Julia's bust (well head) was currently under way. We only saw a part of this great garden. Apparently the tribute to Australia's Prisoners of War is a very moving sight, but we were running out of time.

In town there was no shortage of places for coffee. We chose a delightful little Italian cafe specialising in home made scones and pies. There was a lady behind the counter making and baking her pies, pasties and scones. John chose the plain scones with strawberry jam and double cream, while Carolyn went the whole way and tucked into Raspberry & White Chocolate Scones with more jam and cream. They were absolutely the best scones we've ever had, so light and moist, and the coffee was excellent too.

The Mine at Sovereign Hill.

The police keep the kids in order!

Main Street Sovereign Hill.

Hopefuls seeking gold.

Next day we were off to Sovereign Hill. It came to life in the 1970's and is an unbelievable attraction. The entire Ballarat gold fields town has been re created from old lithographs and photographs. You pay your fee, $36 for seniors, and it lasts for two days, and you step through the gates and back in time. It is a working, life size town. Actors roam the streets adding to the authenticity. Everything is in working order. There are skilled tradesmen making things the old way. There are blacksmiths, wagon wheel makers, foundries with their metal workers making tin & copper plates, and all the stores are staffed with men & women in period costume selling items reproduced to reflect their age, and packaged accordingly. In the centre of town you can pan for gold in the stream. They seed the stream with real gold specks and you can hear the cries of glee when someone finds a golden speck.

Musket firing demonstration.

The kids thought it was hilarious.

Cobb & Co Coach rides.

Ladies out for a stroll.

At various times there are demonstrations and of old skills, and mock disputes. There are Red Coat soldiers marching through town, and the real life Cobb & Co Coach takes visitors for rides around the streets. We particularly enjoyed the musket firing demonstration conducted by a larriken policeman, who had the kids and adults in stitches with his antics. There was also a street altercation between a gentleman and a lady of ill repute, that involved the police and most of the crowd. It was pure entertainment. We enjoyed a very full afternoon, as we walked among the old buildings, seeing how life was in the 1860's. We finished off the day with an actual demonstration of a gold pouring, but alas there was no sampling! This is an attraction not to be missed in Ballarat. If you only have time for one thing to do, make it this. Across the road, is the Gold Museum, and your ticket includes entry here as well. This was also excellent, as we followed the history of gold, not only in Ballarat, but the role it has played in the world's cultures from times BC to the present. You can also see some amazing gold nuggets that lucky buggers have dug up, fallen over, or found with metal detectors, and coinage from all around the world.

Buninyong Fresh Produce Markets. 

Our last day in Ballarat started with a thunderstorm, a hail storm and freezing winds, but cleared to be a lovely spring day! Gotta love Victoria's weather! We took ourselves out to the nearby village of Buninyong, where the Fresh Produce Market was in full swing. We filled our bags with loads of fresh vegetables, some meat and smallgoods, and some home baked bread. It was a good market. Small, but quality. The village of Buninyong has a lot of history and some grand old buildings. as we discovered as we followed the heritage trail around the small village. We enjoyed a Chinese Yum Cha lunch, Ballarat style. It wasn't quite what we were used to in the hustle & bustle of Sydney's Chinatown, but it was tasty. That afternoon we decided to escape the cold and take in a movie at the beautifully restored Her Majesties Theatre. We saw the new movie Lawless, all about the prohibition era and hillbilly moonshine. We enjoyed it, though it was pretty brutal in parts.

The new Australian Centre for Democracy @ Eureka, was not yet open, so that will definitely be on our next visit list. The history of the Eureka Stockade and the role it played in Australian democracy is a great story, probably not fully understood by many Australians.

So there you have it. A whistle stop tour of Ballarat. Next day we are off to meet up with Lynne and Paul at Warburton.

Stop Press!!
Monday morning, the alarm is followed by a phone call from Lynne & Paul. They arrived in Warburton Sunday afternoon in steady rain. The Caravan Park was a perfect example of how glossy brochures can lie. It was a shocker. It was a bog. They somehow managed to get set up for the night, and went to bed with visions of our caravan sinking up to the axles, so next morning they were quickly on the phone, and we agreed a quick change of plans. So now it's back to Beechworth for a week of rest and relaxation. 

Halls Gap - The Grampians

On the road to Halls Gap.

Halls Gap, in central western Victoria, is the gateway to the Grampians National Park. It is an area we have never visited before, and came as a wonderful surprise to us. We really fell in love with the area, and quickly realised we would need weeks to see what the immediate and surrounding area, has to offer. So another place goes onto the come back list.
We came along the Western Fwy from Melbourne, turning off at Ararat, and driving through some wonderful sheep grazing country, and field after field of golden canola.

Courtesy of Tom Wills.

Along the road, we passed through the small village of Moyston, where a sign heralded that this was the town where the game of Australian Football was born. Yes folks, this is the place where some poor guy playing rugby, got so scared that he might be tackled, he kicked the ball as hard as he could and everyone chased after it. Well, that isn't actually true. In fact I made it up, like a true rugby man would! The game was actually a derivative of an aboriginal game. A local identity, Tom Wills, is credited with inventing the game, which incorporated many of the rules he learnt from the games he played as a child with the local aborigines. Tom Wills was also a great cricketer, and was involved in taking Australia's first touring cricket team to England, an all Aboriginal team. His statue stands outside the MCG today. A true sporting hero to all Victorians.

Need help with the cooking?

Kangaroos everywhere!

As you approach  Halls Gap, the majesty of the Grampians looms large over the town. We find our caravan park The Big4 Parkgate Resort (very fancy!), and with help from the friendly manager Kim, we are soon settled in on a spacious corner site. I think that next time we would stay at the Halls Gap Caravan & Tourist Park which is right in the middle of town, and is pet friendly. Our park was excellent with great facilities, but it is 1.3kms from town. The area is full of wildlife. In fact the caravan park is full of very friendly critters. As I cooked dinner a kookaburra literally flew in and sat beside the BBQ. There were kangaroos, hopping by, and across the park were a number of less friendly emus. The bird life was prolific, with huge flocks of Corellas, galahs and cockatoos screeching and squawking from every paddock and tree. 

Mackenzie Falls.

Carolyn at The Pinnacle.

The area is most famous for its walks and breathtaking mountain scenery. It is wonderfully sign posted whether in car or on foot. Walks range from easy to ridiculous, and again Sherpa Tensing could well be the rating guy! We did most of the drives to the fabulous lookouts called Boroka and Reed, and we drove out and did the 2km walk to the Mackenzie Falls which were lovely. We spoke to the staff at the Outdoor Shop in town, about the various walks, taking into account our fitness level and John's dodgy knees. She suggested John buy one Nordic style hiking pole as it would give good support when climbing up and down over the bush steps and rocky paths, and it was excellent advice. We did the "moderate" 4.2km walk to The Pinnacles, probably the most famous landmark in the area, and it was well worth the sweat and shortness of breath. It was blowing a gale when we got there, (no it wasn't us heavy breathing!) but the views were amazing.

John & Carolyn at the Pinnacle.

The other walk we did was along Fyans Creek. It started from opposite our caravan park and headed around behind the town and almost out to the opposite end of town. It was beautiful, and lacked the arduous climbing of the Pinnacle walk. We saw lots of different birds and kangaroos and wallabies. It was around 5.5km and primed us for coffee at "Livefast", the venue we had decided was the best coffee and lunch spot in town. We had an excellent breakfast here on our last full day. It was different to the normal fare and comprised pan fried pork belly, on a herbed potato cake, served with poached eggs and a fresh Salsa. Scrumptious is an apt description!

Elvis would have approved!

On Sunday, there was a big car rally in town at the local oval. It was called Show & Shine, and featured over 100 vintage and veteran cars, all beautifully restored and presented for judging in countless categories. A gold coin donation was all it cost for a walk down memory lane. It wasn't only confined to cars. There were some wonderfully painted motor bikes as well. Watching the owners was as much fun as watching the cars. Many were dressed in clothes to match the period their car was from. There were jumping castles, side shows and food stalls. By 5.00pm it was all over and the kangaroos had reclaimed the oval!

The real truth behind immigration, or
what bad fishermen have for lunch?

The surrounding area is a treat to drive through. Lake Fyans is nearby, and was hosting its annual fishing tournament weekend. We met some intrepid fisherman seeking the ideal spot to fish. They told us they had been coming for 17 years and were yet to weigh in a fish!! Talk about keen, with their hats full of flies they'd made, they sure looked the part! They did say that the record bad fisherman was into his 34th year without weighing in a fish. Thank god for Fish Shops! We also drove out to Horsham, the regional capital of the area. It looked a nice City, as we only did a drive around. There was a garden show happening at the Riverside gardens, and a lovely new aquatic centre. The entire regions is sheep and glorious fields of grain and golden canola. 

Guess who won in 2007?

Bringing out the gold bearing ore.

Other towns of note are Stawell, home to the famous professional footrace held each Easter for more than 100 years, and Ararat, which is the site of the richest alluvial gold find in Australia. Stawell is the closest "big" centre to Halls Gap, and is where you come to do your grocery and general shopping. It is a nice town. The streets are lined with gold and orange daisies at present, that have self seeded in the grass. They become carpets of gold which makes it a real site to behold. There are some lovely old period homes and spectacular gardens. The Visitor Centre is at the Athletics Ground, where we did the tour tracing the history of the famous foot race. Even got to set foot on the beautifully manicured real grass track. The other major attraction in town is the modern, working gold mine, right in town. They have taken more than 2 million ounces of gold since it commenced in the 1990's. 

Inside J Ward.

The Orchid House at Ararat
Botanical Gardens.

Ararat Town Hall.

Ararat came into being due to it's gold history. It was huge with the Chinese, who came here in their thousands. The Gum San Chinese Heritage Centre tells their story. In the 1860's, in order to avoid the entry tax imposed on the Chinese by the Victorian Govt., unscrupulous ship captains dropped them off at Robe on the South Australian coast. Without maps they somehow made it to Ararat, crossing The Grampians and a lot of other rough country. It is an amazing story. Ararat is also famous for crazy people. J Ward and Aradale are the places to go to learn about the insane. J Ward is the old Ararat Gaol. It was converted from a Gaol in the 1860's to a place to house the criminally insane, those prisoners never to be released for crimes committed. So it was actually part of the health system, but boy were there some nasty  nutters held here. Across town is Aradale, one of Victoria's largest lunatic asylums. It closed in 1993 but the impressive buildings sadly still stand as a decaying reminder of how our mentally ill have been treated. We did a very good tour of J Ward, but Aradale only has tours on Sundays, which didn't fit our schedule. The Orchid House in the Ararat Botanical Gardens was also a wonderful sight. The gardens are set around a lake, right in town, and have BBQ's and picnic areas. It is a really nice setting. The town itself is built along a winding main road, lined with shops and cafes. There are some fantastic heritage buildings and the pub is a great example of art deco architecture.

The name is daunting!

The 1st at Mt. Difficultis an
emu lined Par 4!

Back at Halls Gap, we took a drive out to the Golf Course. It is a 9 hole track cared for by volunteers. It looked in pretty good condition, but its name was ominous, Mt Difficult! But maybe the difficulty was negotiating your way through the hundreds of kangaroos and emus that dotted the course! The other lovely drive we took was south of town towards Dunkeld. We took a turnoff that went up over a pass and down into the Victoria Valley. If I was a sheep, I'd want to live here. 

We left Hall's Gap Thursday morning. It was still cool and overcast. We decided to head for Ballarat via Dunkeld and the Glenelg Hwy.  Carolyn had read about the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. It has won best regional restaurant in Victoria and Australia. It has two Chefs Hats. Apparently it is owned by one of Victoria's leading barristers, who wanted to keep it in the family, so he spent a few million doing it up, putting in some accommodation and ensuring some of the world's best chefs work there. We got there at lunch time, parked the van alongside the Bentley, the Mercedes and the BMW, took one look at the dining room and the clientele, and decided trackies and T Shirts didn't quite fit in, so we went into the bar and had the best Fish n Chips this side of heaven, served from the same kitchen. We'll be back!!!

Melbourne - October 2012

Melbourne - Tree lined streets & Trams.

As we stand in the Bourke Street Mall, watching the throng of people and the trams moving along the mall, we are instantly reminded why more people don't live here. It is drizzling rain, and the freezing wind cuts right through you, and this is Spring!! They sell more overcoats in Melbourne per hour than are sold in Sydney in a year!! 

As born & bred Sydneyites we know we will be branded as traitors, turncoats and heretics, but we really like Melbourne. Despite the weather, there is no doubt in our minds that it has an overall more cosmopolitan feel, and the food and coffee scene is streets ahead. In the back lanes of Sydney you get mugged. In the back lanes of Melbourne, you get fed delicious food and great coffee!

We are in Melbourne whilst the back roof of the caravan is repaired. Oops! John backed into a low tree branch last year, and it is time to get it fixed. We are taking a Hotel break, and have chosen the Victoria Hotel in Little Collins Street, right in the middle of town, and an easy walk to everywhere. It is a 3.5 Star joint, part of the Mercure Group. But best of all is its 4C rating, Clean, Comfortable, Convenient and Cheap, plus it comes with cheap parking. The car is in the garage for the rest of the week. We will be walking or using the trams, where we can travel all day for $3.60. This week is all about self indulgence. Good food, good shopping, movies and sightseeing.

Federation Square.

Having taken in the Tulip Festival en route to the hotel, we arrived late afternoon, so quickly settled in and headed out for drinks. What better place for a wine and an ale than The Elephant & Wheelbarrow. It is a pommie style pub with a thousand beers on tap, hundreds of ciders, and vats of wine to choose from. Yep, there was a lot of choice and a lot of funny names we've never heard of, so we stayed safe and ordered a Victorian Red Hill Pinot Noir and a James Squire Golden Ale, both fine choices. The after work crowd piled in and the noise level went up, and then the pub food started to emerge. Huge plates of Chicken Parmigiana, Pies and Chips, Fish & Chips, nothing like the sophisticated food Melbourne is famous for, so we hit the streets in search of sophistication! We didn't have to travel far up Bourke Street to find celebrity chef Guy Grossi's establishment. Next to the main restaurant is his little bistro bar, which was packed to the rafters. The authentic Italian waiter squeezed us into a corner, and we enjoyed magnificent bowls of pasta, Carolyn went for her favourite, Spaghetti Vongole (Baby Clams), and John the house special pasta, loaded with rich tomato sauce and Calabrian sausage. Some wonderful crusty bread and a couple of glasses of the waiter recommended Italian house red, Italian Espresso to finish, and we were in culinary heaven.

Flinders Street Station.

Next morning for breakfast, we headed down to the wonderful lanes that link Bourke, Little Collins and Collins Streets. The lanes are full of cafes and small shops. The cafes all have their colourful spruikers outside, promoting the virtues of their establishment. We chose a place called "Grasshopper", and it was good. In fact it was so good that we were back the next day as well. Not your average brekkie menu. This one included great zucchini fritters and corn cakes served with lovely extras. Some places just have that kind of flair, and this was one of them. We did a few of the stores, and wondered up to Melbourne Central to see what was on at the movies. Carolyn chose "Arbitrage", Richard Gere's latest offering. We enjoyed it. That night it was cold and miserable so we decided to do China Town and find some good Asian food. We found a busy cafe, full of Chinese. It was called Pacific BBQ Cafe, and the window was full of all those golden roast ducks, and slabs of all other types of meat. We had no chance of figuring out the menu, and the waitress tried really hard to explain it to us. In the end we left it to her, and very soon two plastic cups full of steaming Chinese Tea arrived, followed closely by two plates, one laden with chunks of roast duck, served with noodles, and the other was laden with chunks of roast pork served with fried cabbage & onions, and some of the best fried rice we've ever eaten. The duck was great, the pork was sensational, and we were fed and watered in under 45 minutes and under $30!!!!

Wednesday morning after a light breakfast at Grasshopper we hopped on board the no. 96 Tram and headed out to South Melbourne Market. Now everyone knows about Melbourne's famous Victoria Market, well at South Melbourne it is smaller, similar and high quality. Open only on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, it is right beside the tram stop, and when you enter, it is a visual feast. We came in through the food hall. There were butcher shops, fish mongers, wonderful deli's, and amazing fresh fruit & vegetables, all at fantastic prices. If we lived here, this would be our fresh food source. The general merchandise was also very good, and some of the flower shops were dazzling. The ready to eat food hall area was equally dazzling with fresh seafood on offer, Asian offerings, Middle Eastern Food, and our choice was "Simply Spanish". Set up on the footpath were tables and chairs, and a guy stirring a huge bowl full of steaming Paella. The place was packed. In addition there was a Tapas list from which we chose Mushroom & Prawn fritters, all golden brown on the outside and mushy and full of flavour in the centre, served with a spicy salsa, and a Spanish style of Bruschetta loaded with diced tomato, garlic and tiny capers. All absolutely delicious, with the Spanish music blaring out over the speakers, it just called for glasses of spicy Sangria, which washed the food down perfectly. The only thing missing were Flamenco dancers and a bull fight. I knew we should have come Saturday!!!

Mexico's version of Food Heaven

Back in town we took in another movie, Taken 2. That was us!! We found it a serious let down after the first movie, which never had us off the edge of our seats. Sometimes sequels work, this time it didn't. So we were in serious need of drinks and more food. This time, on Lonsdale Street, we found the Mexican version of food Heaven, going by the great name of "Touche Hombre". The place was really jumping, and at 7.00pm it was packed and had a line out front. We got a seat quickly, provided we would be out in an hour. On the basis that once we were in, they then had to get us out, we took the challenge. More Sangria, this time in a metal jug, whilst we perused the menu and started eyeing off the plates of unbelievable food coming from the kitchen. It was time to get a waitress. It is much easier to point and say "what's that", than try and work out a menu when it doesn't sound like anything is bad. We started with something called Tositados, which were round corn chips piled high with crab meat and some kind of delicious chili mayonnaise. These were followed by Tacos, but not your average Tacos. On the scale of 1 - 10 these were 12's. Soft Taco shells loaded with fillings like Duck, Pork, Chorizo and Soft Shell Crab, and all with some fantastically matched salsa or sauce. Aye Carumba, it was delicious. An ice cream sandwich of passion fruit ice cream sandwiched between toasted coconut wafers, and these hombres were out of the door with 90 seconds to spare! The food was really well priced, but they didn't miss you with the drinks! Still it was all excellent. Out on the footpath, the choice was either rejoin the queue or head for home. Sanity prevailed!

Thursday morning we were checked out late, and heading for Cambellfield to pick up the caravan. Our stay in Melbourne was at an end. It had been a feast for all our senses. The caravan looked great, and we headed back to Ashley Gardens Big4 for an overnight stay, before heading for the Grampians. The weather was still grey, drizzly and cold, just as the week had started, but that is Melbourne.

Tulip Festival

Every year in September/October a very special horticultural event is held in the Dandenong Ranges east of Melbourne. It is the Tesselaar Tulip Festival held at Silvan, near Monbulk.

The Tesselar family were Dutch immigrants who came to Australia in 1939 to escape the Nazis. They purchased the land and started a flower bulb farm. Each Spring, hundreds of people would climb through the fence to witness the spectacle of the flowers. In 1954, the Festival was born, and it continues today, as a major event on the Australian horticultural calendar. Today, a third generation of the family continues the business.

We were fortunate to be in Melbourne at the right time, and even though we were at the very end (second last day), the display was breathtaking.

Enjoy this floral tribute to the festival.

Huge fields of colour.

All shapes & sizes.

Lovely frill edge.

More frilly edges.

Magnificent azalea.

Azalea and tulips.

The deep purple is spectacular.

Tulips for miles.

.

Carolyn amidst the purple.

Every colour of the rainbow.

Rhododendron at the gate.

People wandering the fields.

Beechworth

Murrumbidgee River Valley
near Jugiong.

Down the Hume Hwy we head, destination Beechworth, on the edge of Victoria's high country. It is a part of Australia we absolutely love. It is spring time, and the country is lush and green and there are countless fields of golden canola. It is truly spectacular.
No trip along the Hume is complete without a stop at one of our absolute favourites, The Long Track Pantry at Jugiong. It is a gourmet delight. As luck would have it, we arrive at lunchtime. The lunch tasting plate is delicious, loaded with their famous trout pate, pork terrine, local goat's cheese, artichoke hearts, local prosciutto and roasted tomatoes, plus a freshly baked baguette. I've died and gone to heaven!!
Loaded up with bottles of dressing, chutneys and jams, we are back on the road, our mouths full of delicious flavours.

Set up at Lake Sambell Caravan Park.

We arrive at Beechworth late afternoon. Whilst we have visited the area a number of times. we have never actually stayed at Beechworth. We are staying at Lake Sambell Caravan Park, situated on the banks of the lake, a short and very pretty walk into town. It is a really lovely park, and the managers are super friendly and helpful. Manager Roger offers Carolyn a ride to our site on his quad bike ( I bet he says that to all the girls!). We soon realise that the tree next to our site will interfere with our satellite, so Roger is on the walkie talkie to Mick and almost by magic Mick appears with his pole saw, and the tree is suitably pruned! Talk about service. A cold beer for Mick! As night falls, the fire pits start to light up, and there is the sound of guitars and harmonicas, as the locals put on a free show. Our neighbour plays a pretty good guitar. The caravan park resembles a fairy land. So many talented people.

Beechworth Gaol.

Beechworth is a lovely little village, full of history, including lots of Ned Kelly. The old stone buildings and churches are some of the best examples you will see, and of course there is the old Beechworth Gaol, that operated from 1856 until 2004. You can do tours at certain times, or simply have a walk around, which is what we did. In more recent times, the Beechworth Bakery has become quite famous. Unfortunately, we are a little Beechworth Bakeryied out, as almost every country town in Victoria has a Beechworth Bakery. They seem to be the Woolworths of the bakery industry, and the experience is now more one of average coffee and commercial cakes. Instead, we found and liked Blynzz Coffee Roasters, where the coffee was excellent. 

Reign of Pearls Cafe at Myrtleford.

Friday was a beautiful day, so we headed for Myrtleford and Bright. It is a spectacular drive along part of the Great Alpine Road, that eventually makes its way across the mountains and down to Bairnsdale. With the mountains as a backdrop, and the countryside green and lush, it is a sight to behold.  At Myrtleford, we attended to some banking matters and in desperate need of coffee, Carolyn spied Reign Of Pearls, a wonderful little antique shop and cafe. Real old world, all served in antique fine china cups. So,with pinkies suitably extended, we enjoyed home made custard tart and lovely coffees.

The road follows the Ovens River, and the old Rail Trails, which have been converted into bike and walking trails. This area is full of these wonderful trails that are well patronised. We stopped in the little town of Porepunkah, nestled by the river, and a popular stop for the cyclists.

Blossoms in Bright.

Arriving in Bright in Spring, is a real attack on the visual senses. There are blossom trees, Rhododendrons, Camelia, wisteria and azaleas all in full bloom, amidst the the fresh new greens of the deciduous trees coming to life.

Heading for the Apex Lookout
at Bright.

Bright would be at home in the Cotswold's of England. The lovely river running through town, the mountains in the distance and the endless stream of cafes, gift shops and even a Boutique Brewery. We drove all around town, and checked out the caravan parks, for future reference, then spied a sign, "Apex Lookout", so off we went. The sealed road became a gravel road, became a 4WD only steep dirt track, all well sign posted, and soon we were in 4WD heading for the summit. The drive was a great test for the new car, and the views at the top were well worth it. It was a lot cooler up on the mountain, and as happens with 60+ men, a toilet break was essential. Carolyn sent me down a track, where I met a snake slithering towards the same tree. It was  a classic encounter of Black Snake meets One Eyed Trouser Snake, and I knew who'd win. Hiss was bigger than mine, so I high tailed it back up the track, my toiletry priorities having re focused! The mountain descent was rapid!

Lunch at Ginger Bakers in Bright.

Tapas at Ginger Bakers in Bright.

Now back in town, and desperately in need of a drink, Carolyn comes to the rescue, in the form of Ginger Bakers, a Cafe and Tapas Bar with a wonderful outdoor area under the trees and looking over the river. This was one of those special lunches we get to have, in a setting that is picture postcard perfect. A walk along the river is a fitting end to the lunch. There are people everywhere, and even some blue children swimming in the icy river. There was one little girl, who obviously was looking at a career in beauty therapy, as she had covered herself in mud!

My first mud pack!

We decided to take the long way home, up over Tawonga Gap to Tawonga and Mt. Beauty. The views down over the valleys were unbelievable, all in the shadows of Mt. Buffalo and Mt. Bogong (Victoria's highest peak), both of which were still snow capped. As we drove into Mt. Beauty it was really living up to its name with blossoms in bloom everywhere. From here we headed down through the lush green Keiwa Valley, which is full of dairy farms. Taking the Happy Valley Road, we climbed back over the range, seeing first hand the carnage that still remains from those horrific bushfires of 2 or 3 years ago. Some trees just don't come back. The forest road was alive with parrots and we rounded a bend and startled a beautiful black faced wallaby, grazing by the side of the quiet road. Easy to see how they get skittled.

Is Ray the goat????

We are back on the Great Alpine Road at Ovens, where we are met by an interesting sight, a goat sitting on an old car being used as a billboard. Not sure how many votes Ray the goat got, but he'd be right at home in Julia's cabinet!!
We arrived back at home just in time for happy hour and the lighting of the fires. No guitar tonight, just the lone harmonica.

The Woolshed Falls.

One for mum!!

That night the heavens opened and Saturday dawned cold and very very wet. We lay in late, listening to the rain on the roof, before a late breakfast at home followed by coffee at Blynzz. It continued to bucket down so we decided to head out along the local scenic drive around the gorge, which was really nice, and quite spectacular in parts with the creeks and rivers swollen with rain. We continued on to the lovely little village of Rutherglen, Australia's home of fortified wines. A delightful cafe with the name of Taste proved the ideal place for lunch. Lovely soup and gnocchi, and then back out into the rain. It got heavier and heavier as we worked our way back to Beechworth via Wodonga. We passed a sign that was a real family moment, and couldn't help but take a photograph. Mum will love it, her maiden name was Jones, and there they were, the Jones and Anderson wineries side by side!One final warming coffee at Blynzz and we were back at the caravan park, feeling nothing but sorrow for those camping in small tents, huddled under shelters and looking cold, wet and miserable. We locked ourselves in, put the heater on high and settled in for cosy night of TV. 

Sunday morning, surprisingly started bright and sunny. We got packed up in no time, thankful that everything would not be put away wet. One last drive through town. One last look at all those poor campers, hanging everything out to dry. One last coffee at Blynzz, and we were on the road to Melbourne, looking forward to a few days R & R in Melbourne Town, whilst the roof on the caravan is being repaired. Thanks to our new Navman Sat Nav unit, we reached the Ashley Gardens Big4 Caravan park at Braybrook, in Melbourne's inner west, with a minimum of fuss. We are doing a drive thru for the night before dropping off the caravan first thing Monday morning.