Alice Springs

Dinky the singing dingo
at Stuarts Well.

The drive up to Alice Springs took us through more of the same flat country. We stopped in at Stuart's Well, as we had read about the famous singing dingo that performs for his supper at the Roadhouse. Unfortunately, Dinky was all tuckered out and sleeping under a bush, so there would be no performance for us. So all we got was a photograph of Dinky's photograph! There was not much else at Stuart's Well. We were going to overnight here, but thankfully decided we could get all the way to Alice. Thank God!

Arriving at Alice Springs.

Alice Springs from Anzac Hill.

Driving towards Alice Springs from the south, you start passing through the ranges, that symbolise the area. You actually drive through a gap in the MacDonnell Ranges, and find Alice Springs nestled in a valley, surrounded by the East and West MacDonnell Ranges. It is quite a sight, with the green grass and trees of the town, framed by the red ranges, and the brilliant blue sky. A fantastic vantage point to see the town is Anzac Hill. From here you get a 360 degree view of how the town sits in the valley. We drive past the town centre to find our home for the next two weeks, the Wintersun Tourist Park. It is a secure compound, with sliding security gate and high perimeter fence strung with barbed wire, and is our first introduction to living in Alice Springs. The girls cabin is comfortable. and we have a large grassy site for the caravan, so we are set up and ready to see the sights of Alice Springs and the surrounding area.

Rare Todd River Herring!

First stop is to do a tour around town. We stop at the Todd River, where true to form, not a drop of water is to be found. We walk the river bed, and contrary to popular belief, find evidence of sea life. (See photo). We continue our drive around town, and find the Lasseter's Casino and Hotel, as well as the excellent Alice Springs Golf Club, which Carolyn and John played after the girls had returned home. It is a good layout, and despite the harsh conditions, was in good order. We find the Todd Mall, and the two shopping malls in town, as well as the essential supermarkets. We now have the lay of the land.

The Ghan at Alice Springs.

Sunday is one of the two days in the week that The Ghan, one of the world's great rail journeys, comes through Alice Springs. So we headed down to the station, to check it out, all 32 carriages. Named after the Afghan Cameleers, that helped forge the railway line, the Stuart Hwy, and the overland telegraph, the journey traverses Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. Those Afghans sure left quite a legacy, in the form of more than a million feral camels, giving Australia, the world's largest camel population. Not bad for species introduced only 150+ years ago! No wonder so many Arabs want to come here to live! Having been away from the city for so long, a vote is taken, and dinner at the Casino is decided. It is a nice venue, and we have a nice meal, and a fling on the pokies, without too much damage done.

This was a favourite stop!

Alice Springs is the first large town we have been to, where large numbers of whites and blacks live together. Living here is like no other place we have been. You cannot help but notice the large & small groups of aboriginals gathered around the parks, shops, street corners, and in fact everywhere you go. Security screens are on almost every window. Gaymoir Products would have been run off its feet here!! Government buildings are like compounds, surrounded by high fences topped with razor wire.There is a very strong police presence, on the street and in the shopping malls. Liquor is obviously a problem. You must show photo ID each and every time you buy alchohol, and there are security guards and/or police on duty at every retail outlet. It is an intimidating environment. The hospital has been through a major overhaul and expansion. Remote Area Health has a huge presence. It is a stark reminder that the aboriginal issue is far from solved. In the two weeks that we are here, we will experience every emotion from admiration for their magnificent art works, to sadness and despair at sights we have seen, all too often

Hermannsberg Mission & Tea Rooms.

Around Alice Springs there is so much to see and do. It is a good size modern town with almost every convenience we city dwellers need. And yes, the coffee scene is excellent, with a number of options available. Unfortunately dining out at night is not recommended, other than at known safe houses, like the casino and larger clubs. Our first full day outing was to the West MacDonnell Ranges. First stop was Hermannsberg, an historic township about 130kms west. It was the site of the first Lutheran Mission, set up in the 1860's. Talk about oversell in the tourist brochures!!! A promise of devonshire tea or a delicious ploughman's lunch at the teas rooms, sounded wonderful, but by all the best measures, the place was basic at best. We have never seen so much dust and decay.

Palm Valley.

Palm Valley.

We dusted off and left town, headed for Palm Valley. The road said high level 4WD only. We fitted the bill, and headed out along a narrow, dusty road. It was a wonderful drive, crossing the river several times, mostly dry river beds to be exact, and looking up at the magnificent red rocky outcrops. We saw a dingo, which got Robyn terribly excited, stopped to let a black snake cross the track, then eventually reached the campground. From here, the road really deteriorated into a rough track, but the slow progress was rewarded, as we entered the valley. What an amazing site. All these magnificent palms and cycads in the middle of the desert. These are varieties of palms that grow nowhere else on earth. It is quite unbelievable to be standing in such a lush oasis, of ancient palms.

Glen Helen Gorge.

Jill, Carolyn, John & Robyn
at Ormiston Gorge.

Ormiston Gorge.

The Ochre Pits.

Next day we were back out in the West MacDonnell Ranges, to visit the various gorges and gaps that cut through the ranges. First stop was Glen Helen Resort, at Glen Helen Gorge. As previously reported, "resort" is used loosely around these parts, and has now been redefined as a roof and four walls that serves beer, and has a helicopter parked out front! This was no exception, though they did have a machine that whirred and hissed a lot, and eventually spat out half decent coffee, which made the stop worthwhile, and of course, the gorge was gorgeous (sorry, I won't use that line again!) Next stop was Ormiston Gorge. This was spectacularly good. A deep pool at the base of the cliff, and a river bed full of ghost gums. No wonder it is a favourite with the locals. The gorge has water all year round, and is a popular swimming hole. The German tourist we spoke to, vouched for how cold the water was, but his blue colour was a dead giveaway. We dragged ourselves away from this inspiring spot, and headed for the Ochre Pits. These were fascinating for another reason, the source of the paints used by the aboriginal artists in their painting. The canyon wall was a swirl of colours, from white to yellow, to red and brown, all mineral colours naturally occurring. 

Rock Wallaby.

Standley Chasm.

Looking up at the rocky ledges surrounding the gorges, would usually reveal a rock wallaby. These agile little guys, bounce all over the sheer cliffs, and are a sight to see in motion. Lunch was taken at Serpentine Gorge, but a walk into the gorge was abandoned, when we saw the sign telling us it was a 3 hour return walk. We've heard that before Sherpa Tensing!! On we went to the best known of the rock features, Standley Chasm. This one is privately owned and operated, which means you have to pay, ($8 for seniors, $10 for Jill), and then get a much worse track to walk on. The Irish guy at the shop, (are there any Irish still in Ireland? The buggers are everywhere!) said it was an easy walk, but if we didn't think it was, and turned back, we could get our money back. Very Irish logic!! Anyway, we headed up the track, past the sign that said "walk, 45 minutes return", walked 50 metres,  turned a corner where the sign said "walk, 30 minutes return", and assumed that after the next corner we would be back at the carpark! Well, it turned out a worthwhile walk, as the Chasm is spectacularly narrow, with sheer walls. Apparently, the best time to come is noon, when the sunlight gets to the chasm floor, and lights up the walls. We were too late, but nontheless it was a mighty fine scene.

Robyn, Jill & Ruby.

Carolyn, John & Doc.

No trip to Alice is complete without a camel ride. Pyndan Camel Tracks, provides the means, and we choose a sunset ride. Carolyn & I are on board Doc, Robyn & Jill are on board Ruby, as we head off into the sunset. There are 5 others in our group. Our guide, whose only claim to afghan blood is that he once ate a date, superbly dressed in black, topped off with a huge black Akubra hat, has a fine wit, for a lad so young. Mounting a cameI is quite difficult (no matter which way you interpret that line!!) Once underway it is quite comfortable, as we get used to the swaying motion, and head for the ranges to watch the sunset. As we circle around, the beautiful scene is shattered by the sound of a mobile phone ringing. Who could that be. Yes it is Robyn!! After two weeks without signal, it now becomes apparent, that Vodaphone must use camels for antennae, in the outback! Imagine the puzzled look on the callers face, who just got told "I'll call you back, I'm on a camel!" It was lot of fun for all.

Dr. John Flynn Memorial.

Last stop for the four travellers was Simpsons Gap. Another beautiful setting. We had also stopped along the way, at the grave site of Dr. John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, which has a strong presence here in Alice Springs. It was quite eerie, actually standing next to that huge stone monument, that I have seen in pictures, since I was a young boy at school, studying this great man and his achievements.

Alas it was time for Robyn to head home. We had one last coffee and cake, then headed for the airport to wave her goodbye. It has been a treat for us to have Robyn share this part of our journey with us. It seems so long ago, we picked her up at Adelaide Airport. We have sure seen some sights and shared some great memories together along the way.

Jesse Gap.

Corroboree Rock

The road to N'Dhala Gorge.

Having seen most of what the West MacDonnell Ranges offers, we three who were left, turned our attention to the lesser heralded East MacDonnell Ranges. Having spoken to the local guy who fixed my windscreen, I was now armed with some sights to see, that were a little less travelled. Out along the Ross Hwy we went. A visit to Emily & Jesse Gaps, followed by a stop, and a walk around Corroboree Rock. All fascinating history. On we go to Ross River Resort, legitamised by the helicopter and four walls. We stopped in for lunch. The staff were very nice, and we had a good toasted sandwich and a drink. Anything more substantial would have required a new mortgage! I enquired about the road out to N'Dhala Gorge, and was told that the road was open, but to be sure I followed the track and did not deviate. 

The road to D'hala Gorge

Budgies everywhere.

This was a great drive, as we crossed the Ross River a number of times. It was a track, only for high clearance 4WD, and was through soft sand, river beds, water up to a metre deep, and all the time looking up at the amazing rock sculptures. To add to the scene, there were huge flocks of Budgies, flashing from tree to tree, showing brilliant green as the sun caught their wings. The gorge itself was not as spectacular as some we had seen, but it was another part in the wonderful picture that is the MacDonnell Ranges. 

Beanie Festival entrant.

Beanie Festival Entrant.

Friday was a designated girly day, so the girls took themselves off to town for some shopping and pampering at the beautician. Yes, Alice has all mod cons.

Saturday rolled along, and the 

Todd Mall Markets was not going to be missed. The Mall is in the centre of town, and is a pedestrian mall at all times. The markets are held every second Saturday, and are very good, with a wide variety of merchandise and food on display. Added to this weekend's market is the annual "Beanie Festival", which is being held in Alice Springs. It is an annual event, and judging by the wide variety of head ware on display, it is well supported. The girls did their best at the market, so it was time for lunch. We headed out of town to a Vietnamese Market Garden and restaurant, set in a garden. Alice Vietnamese Restaurant was very good, and just what we needed on a cold Alice Day.

Driving Lawrence Gorge

Rainbow Valley.

Jill's time with us was drawing to a close. We had one last full day, and took in the last two places my windscreen repair man had recommended, Rainbow Valley and Owen Springs Reserve. The road out to Rainbow  Valley was a shocker. So many corrugations, it shook all our fillings loose. The scenery when we finally arrived was spectacular and easy to see how it got its name. Unfortunately, we had to come back the same way, so more shaking and rattling until we reached the highway. Heading back to Alice, we took the turnoff to Owen Springs, and another fantastic drive through the Lawrence Gorge. This track was again only for 4WD, and we didn't see one other car on the entire drive. It was more like a drive on someones private property, and regularly was only two wheel tracks through the grass. We regularly crossed the Hugh River, and were often just following wheel tracks along the river bed. We stopped in the river bed and had our picnic lunch, just the three of us in all this wide wonderful country.

Picnic in the bush.

Some last minute souvenir shopping, on the way back to camp, and our last full day of touring is at an end.

What a wonderful time we have shared with Jillian. I am sure we have taken her to places she will never forget, and that are far from the well travelled tourist routes.

For our last night in Alice, we decide to get a bit dressed up, and head back to the Casino for dinner at their Asian influence restaurant, Sukra. It proved a good choice, and we all enjoyed a wonderful farewell dinner of Thai and Indian influence yummies. Last morning, was a leisurely late breakfast of Fried Haloumi with Chorizo & Cherry Tomato Salsa, served on Ciabatta Toast, courtesy of Carolyn, and if you reckon it sounds good you should taste it!! We followed that with a coffee at one of our favourite haunts, then out to the airport again for one more farewell.

Back at the Wintersun Tourist Park, it is very quiet, as we sit and reflect on the events of the last four weeks, with Robyn & Jillian. We use the rest of our time in Alice, doing some chores. The caravan and the car both need a good clean, inside and out. The car can now be repacked for travel with only two. We get some new neighbours, and almost fall over backwards, when they introduce themselves as Jo & George! They are a lovely couple from Adelaide, on their way to Darwin and the Kimberley.

We have really enjoyed Alice Springs. It won't make our list of possible places to settle down, but it has been an experience we won't forget. We have changed our future travel plans, due to the fact that the Ayers Rock Campground is booked solid for the next 10 days. So instead of back tracking to Ayers Rock, we will be heading north, and slowly working our way back to Sydney to sort out Carolyn's mum's estate. Ayers Rock will have to wait for another time.