Next morning, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at our B&B, before heading into town to collect our hire car. We got another Fiat 500, which suited us fine, as it was diesel, much cheaper fuel, and we were used to the car. The guy checked the car for damage, which really amused me, as this car had not been washed since new! It took us ten minutes to clean the windscreen! We fired up the GPS, and set course for Montone, a small hill town we had heard about. Before we would get there, we had some sight seeing to do! This was the Italy we had come to find. Small towns on winding country roads, off the beaten track. In all our planning, we had found Winnifred, an ex Aussie who now ran a B&B in Italy, and where we will be staying in a couple of weeks. She had given us a number of less travelled places to see, and we had accumulated a list of our own. Our first port of call was a little town called La Verna. Everyone knows St.Francis of Assisi, and visits Assissi, as will we. But near La Verna is the Santuario Di San Francesco, now a huge Franciscan Monastery in the national park, but back in the early 13th century, it was where St. Francis was supposedly living in a cave, when his great miracle occurred, and he received his stigmata, which for those of you like us, who haven't got a clue what that means, that after seeing the vision of Christ's crucifiction in an angel, he received the same actual wounds as Christ on his own body. Well, that's the way the story goes. Let your own beliefs make of it what you wish, but now it is a place of pilgrimage. We saw the cave, the amazing frescoes depicting the whole story, and visited the church. The huge complex, where pilgrims can actually stay, has incredible views out over the valleys. It is a peaceful place.
From there we headed not to far, to another small town, called Caprese, the birthplace of Michaelangelo. Along the way, we stopped at a country tavern for lunch, where we thought we ordered an antipasto plate to share. We got one each! Mountains of meats & cheeses & tasty spreads on warm toast. It was good, and turned out to be modestly priced. At Caprese, we followed the signs to Michaelangelo's house, which was at the top of a very steep road, that seemed more and more like a pedestrian path the further we drove! We arrived at the gate, not a car in sight! I parked on the grass beside the gate, contemplating the return journey. We were the only ones there, except for the girl on the gate, who was wearing a puzzled look, and speaking fast Italian we couldn't understand. She took our money and we wandered around. The place is obviously not well known, but today houses some copies of Michaelangelo's treasures, plus some more modern sculpture exhibitions. It was good, and we got out without running over any pedestrians! From hear, we found our way to Montone, and the Hotel Fortebraccio, just outside the city walls. The hotel was great, with views to die for out over the Tuscan countryside. The pool area was fantastic, but high on the hill, was a bit too cool for a swim. We wandered up the hill & into town, where we found the main piazza. It was full of the locals, playing cards, smoking & drinking. As we walked into the square, all heads turned towards us and the noise level dropped, but soon got buzzing again. We found a table, and were warmly welcomed, as we ordered our drinks. I offered to pay, but that just got a nod of the head and a wave of the hand. When it was time to go, a different person just asked me what we had! Each drink brought with it a plate of nibbles. By the time we had three drinks, we didn't need dinner. And, drinks were so cheap compared to where we had been. Three drinks each, plus all those nibbles, cost us €15 ($22)!
Next morning we drove out across the wonderful countryside to Cortona. This beautifull hillside town, was where the book & film, Under The Tuscan Sun, was based. It is such a beautiful place. We wandered the streets & took in the sights of this beautiful town. It is much bigger than Montone, where we are staying, and has some impressive buildings, and lovely park areas. We found a nice Pasticciera for morning coffee. We love the custom where you just take a napkin and pick up your pastry, then they bring your coffee. Here there is no extra charge for sitting, so we took a table. Carolyn had chosen a meringue, which when she bit into it, just exploded! There was meringue dust over about one square kilometre! The German couple next to us just cracked up, and when we looked, they too were covered in dust! Not Carolyn's, they had the same meringue! You don't need to be able to speak a language to communicate! By the time we left, the Germans had been sanitised and washed down by Carolyn. In the afternoon, we took a lovely drive to Casteluccia, a tiny & remote hillside town in the Umbrian mountains. It was a fantastic drive into the Monti Sibillini National Park, along a narrow winding road that had a sheer drop on one side, with breathtaking views over Umbria. We stopped briefly at the walled city of Norcia, and would loved to have spent time exploring. Norcia is the meat & smallgoods capital of Italy, so much so, that many butcher shops call themselves Norciarianos! We climbed up over 1500 metres, and at the top of the mountain, the vista changed to a vast open plain, almost devoid of trees. There was still snow in the crevices of the mountains, and there, on the far side of this huge valley, was Castellucia, sitting high on a hill, above a yellow plain, covered in wild flowers. A sight to remember. We drove into the tiny town, that had only a few shops, all selling the local smallgoods, including the local specialty, of wild boar! We had another incredible day, and talked about it all the way home.
That night, we had a real treat in store. We were having dinner at a restaurant, that is quite famous in the Umbrian region, called La Locanda del Capitano. This was a fine dining experience that started with a glass of Prosecco, and carried on through three delicious courses. John started with Fois Gras with home made brioche, while Carolyn went for the duck ravioli. For mains, John had a delicious lamb, and Carolyn had caramelised bacon wrapped pork fillet.For dessert Carolyn couldn't resist the Tiramisu, while John's dessert was called mojito, all tangy lime. Chef Giancarlo Posito had worked his magic on us, and the wine he recommended, from a local small producer, was exquisite. This was a culinary night to remember, as we waddled home!
Next morning, as we were checking out, we met another couple of Aussies in the lift. Barry & Marilyn, are not your average Aussies, they live 6-9 months of the year, in Umbria. They fell in love with the area ten years ago, bought an ancient house in a tiny hillside town called Gualdo Cattaneo, which they have fully restored. We talked for ages, and they almost insisted we visit them for dinner. How could we refuse! So, next night, there we were, in their beautifully restored three level home, with panoramic views out over Umbria, enjoying their incredible hospitality. Barry cooked a fantastic dinner of melon with prosciutto, roasted lamb with potatoes and salad, and we finished with this fantastic apricot tart that is so good, and really popular in Italy. Some lovely wines and lovely conversation, it was as if we had known each other for years. This was an unexpected night to remember, and we are certain we will keep in touch, and meet again over the coming years.
It was a late departure from Montone, and our first stop today was Gubbio, another hilltop town. We can't get enough of them! Gubbio is much bigger than others we have visited, and has a history pre dating Roman times. Actually, there is a a pretty well preserved Roman Colosseum here, as well as some amazing churches and old palaces. To our surprise, we found a little tourist train doing a tour of the city, so we paid up and saved some time and legwork getting around town. Gubbio's close proximity to Assisi, means there is a lot of St.Francis history in the town. We drove up to the huge old monastery that looks down over Gubbio, which was quite impressive. From Gubbio, we moved on to Spello, a delightful hilly town full of flowers. Walking the hilly streets is just a delight, with small gardens, pots and window boxes, bursting with colourful geraniums, hydrangeas & spring annuals, especially petunias. We took refuge in a church while a thunderstorm put a short halt to proceedings! We then emerged in time for our daily dose of gelati, and more exploring of this colourful town. We really did enjoy Spello.
Last stop for the day was one recommended by our friend Winnifred. Called Civita Di Bagnaregio, it isn't far from Orvieto, which is our stopping point for the next couple of days. This is a hilltop town like no other we have seen. Situated in an area that resembled Death Valley, this tiny village is perched high on a hill, and can only be reached by a 300 metre long footbridge. You gave to park in a small town nearby, then descend stairs & a steep path, before you even get to the bridge! But it was worth it. What views, and what amazing history, as we read about the various inhabitants over almost 1300 years! It had been a very full day, and we were quite exhausted as we pulled into Orvieto, for two nights at the Hotel Duomo. The drive up into Orvieto is incredible! The "highway" into town is barely wide enough for the car to fit between the buildings! We emerged from the laneways into the main square in search of our hotel, and were gob smacked by the sheer size & design of the famous Duomo. It is massive, and it's black & white striped exterior is wow factor 10, so much so, you hardly notice the incredible facade. We found our hotel nearby, checked in and headed into the streets to find a quick & late dinner of pizza & salad, then home to bed for a big day of church viewing tomorrow.
Breakfast at the hotel was excellent, made all the better by an American guy who gave us his two tickets for the Orvieto Underground tour, which was on our list. He had gotten his train departure times mixed up, so we won the tickets! First stop was the Duomo. We wondered at the incredible carved facade, then stepped inside. If you know the fantastic Ken Follett book, Pillars of the Earth, then you will understand how we felt we had been time travelled into the story, so small in this huge space. It is the most amazing church we have been in so far. No matter where you look, no matter where you stand, you just feel small. From the Duomo, we headed to our underground tour. This was also amazing, as Orvieto is riddled with caves under the houses. The public has only quite recently learnt about this, when some of the caves, became public property. Apparently the caves were work places for the residents, as well as providing storage facilities etc. We clambered along tunnels & up & down narrow staircases, with our passionate guide, Rosita. She was so animated & full of life. This was a fantastic tour courtesy of our American friend, now sitting on a train to Naples! We lunched at a cafe where you just select what you want, and they add it up at the end. You finish up with a huge variety of food to share, and it is so cheap! We love these places.
After lunch, we were back in the car, and on our way to Assisi. I think everyone who comes to Italy comes to Assisi. The place was packed. It is a lovely town, but so touristy! Add to the mix, the workmen setting up for a rock concert, and the place was a circus. If poor old St.Francis could see the place today, he would be mortified. So much for his desired legacy of poverty & a humble look! The place is huge, and in fact is one basilica on top of another, with poor old St.Francis buried in the basement! Why won't they allow no flash photography here? They had guards pouncing on people who dared to raise a phone or camera. Carol looked resplendent in the blue Assisi logoed modesty skirt she had to wear, because her shorts were deemed inappropriate. The big breasted woman with low cut dress, mini skirt & head scarf was deemed appropriate! Figure that one out! St.Francis must have been a boobs man! By the time we left, we felt a bit like lemmings. Thankfully the town was lovely. I think maybe we are getting "over churched!" Last thing on the Assisi agenda was a walk up to Rocca Maggiore, the fort at the top of the hill. Boy, what a hill! It killed us getting there, then the coup de gras was finding we wouldn't have a hope of seeing the huge place before it closed! Impressive building though! So, back down the hill we went, and off to dinner at our new found friends' house, for that dinner we described earlier. What a lovely way to finish the day. It was midnight as we raised the night manager to let us in and park our car. Our Umbria time is now over, tomorrow it is more of Tuscany.
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