Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Italian Odyssey - 4.

Ahhh Paris! City of love, city of light, city of life. What a wonderful city it is to visit. So much history, it's wonderful architecture, and those beautiful tree lined streets. We arrived by EuroStar at Gare du Nord, such a relaxing way to travel, from check in to arrival, and delivered right into the centre of the city. We are staying at a small hotel near the Place de Clichy, called Hotel Darcet. It is a vibrant area, nestled under the hill of Montmartre, and is full of cafes, bars, the red light district, and only a five minute walk from the famous Moulin Rouge, where we are headed on our first night in Paris. The one thing we have immediately noticed, is that the streets are dirty, and covered in cigarette butts! Paris needs a good wash! Smokers are everywhere, and so many young people smoking, and these strange looking electronic cigarettes seem really popular. The outdoor cafe and bar seating is for the smokers, and inside seems deserted at most places. We are felling decidedly smoked already!


To say the show is extravagant is an understatement! Crammed in like sardines, around our ice buckets filled with bottles of Mumm, we are treated to a spectacle of music, amazing costumes, acrobatics, comedy, and God knows why, a naked woman swimming in a tank full of petrified pythons! And, tits, tits and more tits! What a start to Paris. As we left, the line for the 11.00pm show stretched miles along the street, and around the corner! So many people, and it happens every night!


The weather had at least warmed up for our first day, walking the streets of Paris. Everywhere you walk there is a monument, a church, a palace, and thousands of people. Of course we have to shop, and the options are plentiful. Carolyn is on her second warning about "only what fits in her suitcase", and it is only the end of week 2!!! Sunday we took the first of our tours, a small group (8) tour of Versailles. The entire 8 were Aussies, and a fun group. We had opted to do the full day tour, and boy are we glad we did, as we not only got to see all the opulence the palace has to offer, but we got a lot of time to wander through the magnificent gardens, where the fountains were in full motion to the sounds of classical music. An experience never to be forgotten. We had a lovely three course lunch in a restaurant housed in one of the old boat sheds, down by the canal. It was good, as long as you didn't order the steak, which John did. It defied cutting and chewing, and was without doubt From a stray cow left by Louis XIV! Thankfully, everything else was good, the mashed potato excellent!


In the afternoon, we were treated to a very special walk through Marie Antionette's gardens in a secluded part of the estate, that also contains the Trianon, and a Norman Village recreated by her. The gardens and the waterways, the buildings and the history were incredible. Our guide, Ricardo, a passionate Peruvian, who escaped the Andes Mountains 25 years go, has been doing these tours since 1993, and his knowledge was fantastic. Ricardo managed us through the enormous crowds in such a way, that it didn't really feel crowded! This was truly a memorable day. Our fellow tourists had also given us some good ideas, in particular, a night trip to the top of the Arc de Triomphe, to see the city lights, and the light show on the Eiffel Tower. It was short but spectacular nonetheless! Given that it isn't dark until after 10.00pm, we had dinner first at a small Place that served a French version of a Pizza, rolled and oozing with ham and mustard and gooey cheese. Tres Bon! 


Next morning, we decided to hit the hop on hop off buses. Everyone was telling us they were good in Paris. They were right! It proved a fantastic way to see as much of Paris as possible. There are 5 different routes, covering all the districts of Paris. We hopped from one route to another all day, seeing, if not experiencing, every sight in Paris. It was an excellent service, as we only had to wait minutes for the next bus, if at all. The commentary along the way, tells some interesting history of Paris, and how it has changed over the centuries. Only complaint, was those horrible little ear phones that simply will not stay in our ears! 



Having done the Louvre, Notre Dame and other big sights back in 2008, we had our list of "must do's this time". Although, we did walk around the Notre Dame Cathedral again. In the square out front of the cathedral there was a huge marquis (a tent, not aristocrat!!), and inside the tent they were celebrating the 20th Annual Festival of Bread! Only in Paris. We walked through. There were bakers walking around wearing huge gold & silver medals, and there were heaps of breads, baguettes, and pastries to buy, so we did lunch. After lunch, we needed ice cream, and found a lovely little shop that sold fantastic ice cream that they fashioned as a tulip in the cone, as many flavours as your size cone could fit!! 


That evening, we climbed up to Montmatre, with the wonderful Basilica of Sacre Coeur, and the incredible sights of Paris stretching out below. The artists were everywhere, competing to sketch us. We cracked up when one guy described John as "the best in the west, a privilege to paint!" We politely declined, after hearing his "modest" fee! We wandered in & out of the myriad of galleries. It is just incredible. John saw the sign advertising "Mouls et Frittes", a Parisienne must, so we sat outside on the sidewalk for a couple of hours, munching on mussels, chips and crusty baguette, sipping on our Cote du Rhone, and realising what a wonderful life we have.


By now we both have colds, courtesy of that horrendous day in London! But we will not be deterred! We have been to the pharmacy and the pharmacist has given us the Bon medicine, so are pressing on regardless. Tuesday, we are bright and early at the Musee D'Orsay, home to one of the world's greatest Impressionist collections. The wait was only 30 minutes and we were among the masters. What a feeling it is to stand in front of paintings and sculptures, we have only seen in books. Such a humbling experience. We spent three incredible hours walking the rooms of the gallery, a masterpiece at every turn. 



To cap off the Impressionist Day, that afternoon, we are off to Giverney, to visit Monet's home and garden. Again, we had chosen a small group tour with the same company, Paris Trip. As good as our guide Ricardo had been on the Versailles tour, this guide was the exact opposite. A pompous ass! He dumped us at the gate, told us where to meet him, and not be late, then left us to our own devices to explore the gardens & home. It was probably a good thing, as I was having visions of holding his head under the waters of the wisteria covered bridge! Nonetheless, not even he could take away from the spectacle. Being springtime, the garden was awash with colour, and the wisteria was in full bloom over the famous bridge.


The drive home was just the same, with no commentary at all. On this tour, we had 4 Americans, who were lovely to talk with, and two French who sat up front, and talked French all the way home,  non stop, with Monsieur Le Dickhead! Glad we booked the English speaking option!! It was as if the rest of us did not exist! Even when we got near our drop off points, he dropped us near our hotels, asking us to walk, as it would be quicker, and so as he could avoid bad traffic spots! Can't wait to do my Trip Advisor review!


On our last night in Paris we headed out in search of a romantic small eatery in the backstreets of our district. We had passed a few in our walks, and decided on a place called Le Perculateur. It was around 7.30, and the friendly owner welcomed us in, told us they would be ready to serve dinner from around 8.00, and sat us down in the cosy bar with our drinks. In the back of the restaurant, the staff were having their meal. It became apparent that this was a place frequented by locals, with a small but delicious menu. At our table by the window, with our bottle of Languedoc Red, his recommendation, we dined in style. Carolyn started with a salad of rocket, pancetta,poached egg and raspberry vinaigrette, while John went the house made duck terrine, served with the most amazing crusty loaf. For mains, Carolyn did the Maple Syrup smoked Salmon, while John did the Guinea Fowl Lasagne. Both were fantastic, John's was exceptional! For dessert, we headed home, as Carolyn had bought two things from the delightful patisserie near our hotel. One was a Lemon Meringue Tart, surprise, surprise, the other was a large Macaroon, stuffed with a custard and fresh raspberries! Now they were good!!


When we returned to the hotel, we were met by our super friendly Manager, Monsieur Safrin, who kept giving us free bottles of water. Tonight he was overcome with grief at our pending departure, and in addition to water we got a half bottle each of Red Wine and Rose! Little wonder, that next morning it was only Coffee & Croissant at the station cafe! We were up bright and early for our transfer to the Gare Du Lyon and our very fast TGV train down to Montpellier, in the south of France. 

1 comment:

  1. Glad you are having such a great time. Keep the photos coming. Lovely one of Monet's Garden. You should be in the sun at last by now.

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