Karajini National Park.

Karijini National Park, is the second largest National Park in WA and has quite a reputation. Covering more than 627,000 hectares, it has been on our must see list since we left home, and we have read much, and heard even more, from fellow travellers, so our expectations were high. Everything we read and heard is true. It is an unbelievably spectacular, rugged and beautiful place, full of surprises. The rugged Hamersley Ranges are mountains and escarpments that rise out of flat valleys. The plateaus are dissected by breathtaking gorges containing stony, tree lined water courses, and some remarkable pools and waterholes. All of this, in some of the most ancient geology on the planet, dating back 2,500 million years.  

Hamersley Gorge.

Exploring Hamersley Gorge.

Our first day trip was out to the most westerly part of the Hamersley Range, and the Hamersley Gorge. Armed with a picnic of roast beef sandwiches, courtesy of a beautiful piece of "Mobile Butcher" beef we cooked last night on the Weber Q, and plenty of water, we headed out. The first 26 kilometres was on a lovely bitumen road, followed by another 50kms of red gravel. The choking red dust is unbelievable. It gets into everything. The gravel road is pretty good,

Contrasting colours of the gorge.

Unbelievable rock formations.

but we pass a couple of people who have a puncture. We slow to offer help, but they wave us on. The road suddenly returns to bitumen winds down to the edge of the gorge. We park the car in the new paved car park and walk a short distance to gaze down into the gorge. It is just wow! We descend the steep steps into the gorge, scramble over the rocks, and everywhere we look it is just beautiful. Clear cold water, too cold to swim, unbelievable colours in the rocks, and some of the most twisted

Peace and tranquility.

Incredible colours.

and turned rock formations imaginable, all studded with a few of the white trunked Snappy Gums, that manage to survive this hostile landscape. Initially we are the only two people in the gorge, and the quietness and the peace is almost surreal, as we take it all in. As we clamber over the rocks, we find more pools, linked by small waterfalls that are only a trickle.There are lots of small fish in the pools, and little Pilbara banded dragons scurry among

"Wilson!"

Small waterfalls.

the rocks, disturbed from their sun baking. More people arrived to shatter our peace, so we climbed back up the 130 or so steps, to enjoy our picnic. We grabbed the only picnic table at the top of the gorge, and sat back enjoying our lunch and the fantastic views of the gorge and the spinifex covered hills. We have come to like the prickly old balls of spinifex. They are all in flower and have long strands poking out of the top. We have dubbed them "Wilson"!  We packed up and headed back to camp thinking what a start to our exploration of Karijini NP. That evening, back at Tom Price, we had another fun happy hour comparing notes with new friends Laurel and Adrian.

At Oxer Lookout.

One of the gorges at Oxer Lookout.

Next day we headed out to the centre of the park. Armed with another picnic lunch and loads of water, our first stop was Weano Gorge. Here is one of the most famous lookouts in the park. At Oxer Lookout, there are viewing platforms suspended out over the deep rugged gorges. At this point, five separate gorges meet. Incredibly deep and lined with rugged red cliffs, they are narrow and steep. Just breathtaking to behold. We bumped into Laurel & Adrian, and as fate would have it,

Laurel & Adrian.

In memory of a brave volunteer.

continued to bump into them at every spot we stopped all day! Beside the lookout is a Celtic Cross, a memorial to a young SES volunteer, who lost his life in 2005, trying to save an idiot who had gone into the gorge after rain, an absolute no no. Written around the cross is a moving tribute to the young volunteer. From the lookout we headed around to Weano Gorge. Before heading into the gorge, we decided to have our lunch rather than carry it into the gorge.

Nature finds a way!

Walking along Weano Gorge.

The Weano Gorge walk, is a 2.5 kilometre walk, that entailed a steep descent to the floor of the gorge, followed by a walk and scramble, along an up and down trail, that follows the creek. It was a great walk as we criss crossed the creek,several times, discovering tranquil pools, cool clumps of shady gums and slowly running water courses. At the end of the gorge, was the Handrail Pool, a deep pool popular for swimming, but freezing cold at this time of the year. We didn't go all the way around to the pool, as we would have had to

Just gorgeous!

Beautiful Knox Gorge.

wade through knee deep freezing water and the prospect of wet shoes and socks didn't appeal! We loved the walk, and slowly made the climb back to the top. Back in the car we were next on our way to Joffre and Knox Gorges. Again we bumped into Laurel & Adrian. We weren't sure who was stalking who! At these spots it was just wonderful suspended lookouts gazing out into the gorges. The waterfall at Joffre was only a trickle, with a huge pool at the base. Some adventurous youngsters were scrambling down the steep rock face to the pool, but that was not for us! We had enjoyed another unbelievable day, and there was no doubting we would sleep well tonight!

Free camping at Dales Campground.

Kalamina Gorge.

Laurel & Adrian headed off on their journey to the coast. We now have a welcome mat at Innisfail in Far North Qld, whenever we head that way! We also decided to pack up and leave the galahs to their own devices, and head off from Tom Price, to free camp out at Dales Campground within the Karijini NP. I expected to see a flock of galahs in the rear view mirror! This camp ground is run by the Parks & Wildlife Service, and hosted by volunteers who are given free accommodation in return for booking people into the campground. This would afford us a much easier access to the western end of the National Park. We are well set up for free camping, and got settled into a

Walking Kalamina Gorge.

Colourful dragon fly.

large site in Warlu Loop, one of the six separate loops, accommodating campers. Some allow generators, some do not. As we only need the generator when the sun doesn't shine and our solar panels don't work, we opted for generator free. Free camping is a great experience, which we really enjoy. It is basic, but so in tune with all nature has to offer. Our time is only limited by the amount of food and water we can carry. No long hot showers, just a quick top and tail. At this end of the park are some of the most wonderful sights the park has to offer. First stop is Kalamina Gorge, a day trip that took us down steep steps into the gorge, and then a wonderful walk along the gorge floor, following the stream that tumbles and falls over countless rock steps, joined by tranquil pools. It is absolutely beautiful. Hovering above the pools are hundreds of dragon flies and damsel flies, of all sizes and colours. We spent a lovely couple of hours just wandering along the floor of the gorge, then headed back to camp, weary from another fantastic day.

Fortescue Falls.

Giant Fig Trees.

They say you should save the best until last! Our final two days at Karijini, saw us exploring the magic of Dales Gorge. First stop was Fortescue Falls. A steep walk down into the gorge, reveals a beautiful waterfall, cascading into a large pool. We were surprised at the volume of water. It was simply beautiful. As we continued the steep descent, we could hear the screams of those adventurous folk who had decided to brave the water for a swim! When we finally

Tranquil Fern Pool.

Beautiful Maiden Hair Fern.

made it to the floor of the gorge, we followed the signs to Fern Pool, which is another pool, above the falls. It is well named, as we walk through almost a rainforest to reach the pool. There are huge fig trees clinging to the rocks, and the walls of the gorge are covered in ferns. It is all cool under the canopy of the enormous figs. Fern Pool is a very sacred site for the local Aborigines, and signs ask us to respect the peace and tranquility of the pool. Not hard to do. There is a wooden platform with

Great spot for a picnic.

Walking Dales Gorge.

ladder to allow swimmers a graceful entry into the water. No jumping off the waterfall! There were a couple of German backpackers braving the cold water. We wandered back to Fortescue Falls, and scrambled down the rock ledges beside the pool, to start our 3 hour walk along Dales Gorge. Back at the falls, the peace had been shattered by three obnoxiously loud Frauleins from Munchen who were heralding entering the cold water, with a barrage of yelling &

Don't jump!

Along Dales Gorge.

screaming. Unfortunately their sum total of English was F.....K! I was hoping Warlu the serpent would rise from the depths of the pool, but no such luck! We headed off down the gorge, and I just can't think of enough superlatives to describe the sights, as we crossed the stream countless times on stepping stones. It was a truly magical walk. We stopped for lunch on a huge flat rock, beside a small waterfall. Just the two of us surrounded by the sounds of the rushing water. I can't ever remember a more serene picnic spot. At he end of Dales Gorge is another wonderful surprise. We headed along 

Circular Pool.

Circular Pool.

an additional path, around to Circular Pool. It was a tough walk clambering over large rock shelves, but the amazing pool at the end of the walk was worth it. We found another three couples just sitting around taking in the atmosphere of this huge circular amphitheatre, lined with ferns. The sun hardly ever penetrates this spring fed pool. One brave guy decided to have a swim. He lasted 30 seconds, then did the best JC impression I've seen in a long time, as he strode across the surface of the water, having turned blue!! The walk ended with a very steep climb up to the Circular Pool Lookout, then a lovely walk along the rim of the gorge back to Fortescue Falls carpark. An unforgettable day again.

At Albert Tognolini Rest Area.

On the edge of the escarpment.

There is no doubt that our stay in and around Karijini has exceeded all our expectations. This is without doubt one of the most beautiful National Parks we have visited. We are sad to leave its natural wonders. It is a remote destination, but if you have the time, come visit. You won't be disappointed. Our last day was spent just lazing around, taking in the excellent Visitor Centre, and a couple of other lookouts. At the Visitor Centre, we learned with interest, that the infamous Wittenoon Asbestos Mine, was situated along the northern boundary of the park. It was owned by Lang Hancock, the iron ore baron. When the evil effects of asbestos were discovered, the mine was closed and the area cleaned. In fact it was so well cleaned up that the entire town of Wittenoon has disappeared, removed from the register of WA town as if it never existed at all! They just don't want people to go there. We left the park next day, and decided that we had enjoyed our free camping so

Wildflowers starting to bloom.

Our view into the gorge.

much, that we would take in another free camp just outside the park. We had read about this place called the Albert Tognolini Rest Area. Named after a big wig in the Roads Dept. of WA, it is regularly talked about as being a great free camp. We arrived to find a bitumen road leading high up onto an escarpment, with a series of dirt tracks leading off to dozens of campsites. Being early, we were able to take up a prime position on the edge of the escarpment, looking down into the gorge. It was unbelievable. So quiet and peaceful, that we

Wildflowers.

Beautiful Pilbara sunset.

stayed three nights! The sunsets over the Hamersley Ranges were incredible. Every night at Happy Hour, we sat and watched the sunset that changed the landscape to the most wonderful hues of red and orange and purple. We just lounged around reading our books in the shade of our little trees. After dinner we would come outside and lay back in our recliner chairs, and just look up into that night sky full of stars. With no moon, the stars shone like nothing we could remember. The Milky Way was clear and bright. On Sunday afternoon I made a mercy dash to the nearby

Auski Roadhouse Motel.

Dust covered Auski Roadhouse.

Auski Roadhouse, as Carolyn needed her Sunday Paper and an ice cream, a caramel Magnum to be precise! The look on the girls face when I asked about a Sunday paper was priceless! You'd have thought I'd asked for the Holy Grail. Thankfully the Magnums were in plentiful supply! I have never seen dust like I saw at Auski Roadhouse! All the giant roadtrains have turned the dust into the finest powder about 10 centimetres thick. Every step generates a cloud of dust. When a truck drives in, even slowly, it is a total blackout, or actually a "red out". They've even opened a Motel! Everything is coated in red dust. Why on earth would anyone stay here? Back at camp, with Magnum in hand, we reflected on three wonderful days in the outback. All that peace and quiet. Not a worry in the world.

Life is good!! But now, it's time for a long hot shower back in civilisation!!