The Kimberleys - El Questro

Welcome to El Questro.

Most people are aware of the name El Questro, the six star wilderness retreat for the rich and famous, regularly featured on the travel shows. At $2,000 a night it is only for us to drool about, and hope the Lotto numbers come up! Well, as it turns out, it is a lot more than just a millionaire's retreat, it is a resort and holiday destination for all budgets. Being just under an hour from Kununurra, just off the Gibb River Road, we decided to check it out. We had heard about some great tours that you can do around the property, so we booked ourselves a tour and headed out.

Will & Celia Burrell created the complex as it is known today. It had been a cattle property for a hundred years, and the story goes that they paid a million dollars for a million acres of the worst cattle country in the Kimberleys! But they were smarter than the critics, as they saw the tremendous potential for tourism in the dramatic landscape of mountains, rivers and gorges. The tourist attraction that is El Questro, was born.

The Store at El Questro.

The information we had been given said that 4WD was required, but the road had been excellent, until 500 metres from the end when we reached the Pentecost River, where the deep water crossing would have sunk your family sedan! The "township" is the centre of all the action, that includes a pub with snack food, shop, souvenirs, and tour bookings as well as reception for accommodation bookings in the campground (all unpowered sites), and the various cabins. We took a walk around, and found the swimming hole, and a nice looking Steakhouse Restaurant as well. It would be hard work getting a big caravan into this place. It is really suited to small off road vans and camper trailers. The exclusive "Homestead' is situated too far away to walk to, ensuring that the pampered guests are offered total seclusion away from prying eyes. Carolyn was devastated!

At the Durack's Boab Tree.

We checked in for our tour of Explosion Gorge and Branko's Lookout. It included a boat trip along Explosion Gorge. There are a number of Gorges,Thermal Springs and Waterholes around the property, but as we are at the end of the season, only two tours are operating on alternate days, and you can understand why, as walking through these gorges in 45 plus degree heat is no fun! We met our Ranger guide Gavin, and climbed on board our African Safari style LandCruiser. We thought we were the only two, but Gavin advised us that we were picking up two more at "The Homestead". Carolyn was less now devastated. Gavin told us how lucky we were as these guests usually got their own tours, so off we went to collect our companions, Barbara and David, who were just lovely people. They were at the Homestead due to the generosity of their children, who had shouted then a three night stay as a surprise combined 70th birthday present! So be kind to your kids!!!!

The El Questro Homestead.

We crossed over the Pentecost River and headed out towards Explosion Gorge, which is on the Chamberlain River. I was so glad we were in their truck! The River crossings were incredibly rough, and shook us all up as we lurched from side to side. We stopped to take the iconic photo of the Homestead with its rooms hanging out over the cliff, only to be told that this was the room Barbara and David were occupying!! Gavin stopped at a famous Boab Tree, engraved by the Durack Family on their scouting trip to the area in the 1870's, and we stopped to look at a couple of Bower Bird Bowers along the track. Gavin left a silver coin at each spot, so we could check if the Bower Bird was active. In this area, the Bower Birds are attracted to silver and grey colours, and sure enough, on the way back, Gavin had lost his money at one of the bowers.

Gavin & Carolyn.

Getting the boat ready.

Explosion Gorge was unbelievable. Just getting down to the base of the gorge was a trek! The dramatic rock formations in their burnt red and orange, are amazing. We found the boat, and carried over the electric motors and batteries, and headed out onto the water. We learned that the name Explosion Gorge came as a result of Mr Burrell's passion for fishing. In the early days, he and his mad helicopter pilot friend, would fly up here and land on a tiny patch of rock. Instead of

Us in Explosion Gorge.

risking bait and tackle, they threw sticks of dynamite into the

Explosion Gorge.

river, and scooped up the fish! You might have seen an old video clip of a guy waterskiing up a gorge being towed by a small helicopter! This was apparently Mr Burrell and his mate, who lost his pilot's licence as a result of the prank! We quietly cruised up the gorge, staring up at the huge sandstone cliffs, just in awe of mother nature. We saw a number of bird species, including another majestic eagle.

The view from Branko's lookout.

With Barbara & David at Branko's
Lookout.

From Explosion Gorge, we headed up to Branko's Lookout for sunset drinks and nibblies. Another benefit of having Barbara and David along for the tour, was upgraded food package! What a place to watch the sunset! Here we were, high above the Pentecost River gazing down at the never ending landscape. We watched the sun disappear and just sat and talked about how lucky we are to be able to see such wonderful natural treasures, all the time Gavin topping up the glasses with some fine champagne and ice cold beer.

The front Entrance to the Homestead.

Sadly, it was time to leave, and head back to the resort, which is a real experience in itself as we drive across the wild country in darkness. The Homestead, it stood out like a beacon, all floodlit along both sides of the gorge. A spectacular site. As we drove up to the Homestead, the staff came out to meet Barbara & Kevin with ice cold towels, and Barbara quite unexpectedly asked the manager would it be OK to show John & Carolyn around! Talk about put on the spot! How could the guy refuse! So we were offered ice cold towels, and ushered inside to the most beautiful open style foyer and lounge area. This is a place that just exudes class. It isn't opulent, just classy. We walked out past the floodlit lawns and pool area, which is out at the cliff edge, then we were escorted to the Chamberlain Suite. The balcony is two sided, and suspended out over the gorge, and there are so many seating options to take in the magnificent view of the gorge. The walls of the suite facing the gorge are all glass, including the huge bathroom with a two person bath. The bathroom was bigger than our caravan!!! We passed back through the dining area where the table had been set on the veranda for this evening, but no invitation was forthcoming. Dam, I knew I should have worn my formal singlet and thongs!! Then we were out the front door, thanking Barbara & David for their wonderful gesture. Talk about a lucky couple!

On the way back to the pauper's village, Gavin told us that he'd never seen that happen before, and that he was surprised we were shown through. He put it down to the fact that there were only 6 guests staying. He reinforced just how lucky we had been. Better to be born lucky than brilliant, I say!!

That night as we drove back to Kununurra, we talked about what a great day we had had, and stared ahead, ever vigilant for wild life. Whilst gazing at the beam of light, we both gasped in surprise as our CB radio aerial just fell off!! We soon fell about laughing at what kind of omen it might have been. Turns out that all the vibration of the corrugated dirt roads we've been driving on, had simply snapped the metal aerial. We now have a new fibreglass aerial instead.