Carnarvon Gorge

The Entry to the resort.

Set up at Takarakka Bush Resort.

We are so glad we went to Carnarvon Gorge. It is ranked as one of Australia's great natural treasures, and so many people had told us not to miss it. We were there for 5 days, and each and every minute was a delight.

Crossing the causeway into
Takarakka Bush Resort.

It is a very remote place, in what is known as Queensland's Central Highlands. It is a National Park, and the only place to stay is Takarakka Bush Resort, a privately owned venture that provides a caravan park, bush camping, and safari tents. It is a really great Outback Experience, with a lovely creek running along beside. Access is via the Gregory Highway, which we joined as we turned north from Roma. The turnoff to the gorge is about halfway between Injune and Rolleston, neither of which are large towns. It is a 40km drive through some lovely grazing country. The road is unfenced, and we regularly came across cattle on the road. The last 20 km is a gravel road, which was very dusty and corrugated in parts, and included a number of creek crossings, so the caravan really got its first "Off Road" experience, which it handled with flying colours. 

Reception, General Store and Cafe.

Once set up at the camp ground, we headed up to the National Park Information centre, to get the info on the walks to be done in and around the gorge. In the evenings, the campground is a buzz with the noise of happy travellers. We joined up with another Carol and her husband Neville for happy hour. We had arrived together, and in fact had shared the same roadside lunch stop along the way. They are recently retired dairy farmers from near Swan Hill, and are on their way to visit a daughter at Proserpine. It was as if we'd known each other all our lives as we shared stories over drinks.

The Kangaroo wanted to go first!

On the trail.

Next morning we were off bright and early for our big walk. We had decided on a walk that went up the main gorge as far as Ward's Canyon, which is a side track, and on the way back we will make extra side trips into The Amphitheatre, and The Moss Garden. All in all, we will cover about 14 kilometres during the day. And what a day it is. Mother Nature in all her splendour. The track starts with stepping stones across the river then winds along the river crossing it a number of times, always using the carefully placed stepping stones. 

One of the side creeks.

Crossing the main creek.

The scenery is just breathtaking. The unique Carnarvon Pines, only found in the gorge, towering ghost gums and red gums, cycads and ferns. In the side canyons are tree ferns and mosses, and over head the noise from the birds is just amazing. Currawongs, thousands of little black faced birds called Apostle Bird's that sound like a lorikeet, of which there are also many, and the good old kookaburra. If you sit by the river and watch and listen, you'll also see water birds and even an elusive brilliant blue Kingfisher which we were fortunate to see. All the while you meet other hikers eager to tell you what not to miss. We run into Carol & Neville, and compare notes. After around 2 hours we reach the side track to Wards Canyon.

Ward's Canyon.

John enters
 the Amphitheatre

The track is steep and has a lot of steps, but the climb is well worth it, as you work your way deeper into the ever narrowing canyon. The colours in the rocks and the vegetation, together with the crystal clear water make the whole scene. We decide this is the ideal spot to have our lunch. Carolyn has made us sandwiches, and we just sit and take in the vista. As other hikers stop and chat, I rue the fact we didn't bring extra sandwiches. We could have sold ours ten times!! Suitably refreshed, we descend to the main track and head back towards home, and our next side diversion, The Amphitheatre. If we thought the last track was steep, we have now found a new level of steep, and when we reach the end of the track, are met by a series of steel ladders to take us up into the Amphitheatre. Inside is a small chamber with sheer cliffs reaching up to the sky. The floor is covered in moss and small ferns. Just amazing, and again worth the climb.

Cliffs and palms.

Looking towards the Gorge.

Next stop is the Moss Garden. Another steep walk with a huge reward at the end with moss covered trees and rocks, under a a canopy of cycads and Carnarvon palms. We have been on the go for about four and a half hours, and John's knees are starting to bark, so we head back to the carpark, a slow hour away. Carolyn is as fresh as a daisy. Bloody show off!!  Along the way we come across lots of walkers like ourselves, taking breaks as the effects of a long day on the trail, take effect.

Saying goodbye to Carol & Neville.

Back at the camp, there is lots of happy laughter as everyone compares their day of walks over a cold beer or glass of wine. We again spend a lovely Happy Hour with Carol and Neville. They are heading off tomorrow, half regretting they didn't stay a little longer. BBQ's are the order of the night, and the smells fill the air. It won't be a late night tonight! In the morning we say farewell to Carol & Neville, and just spend a lazy day walking around the camp ground, up to the lookout, and along the creek which winds its way around the camp ground. It is just  a wonderful place to be in.

Some of the State of Origin crowd.

Tonight is State of Origin Decider night. People are covetously looking at our Satellite dish and we start to get enquiries as to our reception, which as usual is excellent. No one else can get a thing, and ours is the only dish in the camp. I work out a way to get the TV out the window and spread the word to bring a chair. What a night! Free beer, a rowdy crowd, but alas, a close loss again. But who cares, it is the best State of Origin night we've had in years. In contrast to last night, this is a late night as sorrows need to be drowned, and victors need to celebrate.

On the track again.

Clear water, wonderful colours.

A later start to the day, sees us doing a number of the short walks at the gorge. We do lovely walks to The Rock Pool, the only place in the gorge where you can swim, but swimming is not on today's agenda, then it is off to Baloon Cave, to see the Aboriginal Rock Art, followed by a slightly longer walk up Mickeys Creek Gorge, which has some really spectacular scenery. The short righthand track was described by one of the rangers, as her favourite place in the entire gorge, BUT only if you ignore the "END Of TRACK" sign, and clamber over the rocks and follow what is a pretty well defined track, for another 200 metres. We again have our picnic lunch, and this time choose the picnic grounds at the Visitor Information Centre, where we share lunch with a bunch of lazy kangaroos.

Drinks by the creek.

An Echidna looking for love!

As we walk along the creek at the campground, we find a lovely spot at which to sit and listen for wildlife. There are platypus in the creek, and a number of people have made sightings around dawn and dusk. Sitting there quietly, we hear a little rustling in the grass, and out pops an echidna, about 6 feet away. He just looks at us, takes a sniff and waddles off, followed shortly by his mate! Apparently it is mating time, and within a short time we see another 2 pairs, waddling along the creek bank. How unbelievable is that! Sadly, no platypus sighting.

Cowboys mustering along the road.

Thursday night is Pizza night at Takarakka. We have put in our order, and around 7.00pm head over to the kitchen to see "Cookie", and collect our pizza. It is a beauty, and a good way to spend our last night. We have had a number of visitors drop by to thank us for the footy night, and we have loved the comeraderie of the friendly campground. We have met some lovely people. Next morning we hit the dusty road out of the gorge. We leave the dust behind, and then run into a road block of a different kind. We run into a couple of cowboys droving around 600 cattle along the road. It is a real case of the old and new, with one on his trusty horse using his dogs, and the other on his quad bike. The boys come over for a chat, and we follow them a few hundred metres down the road, dodging cow pats, where they send them down a side track to new pasture. 

We hit the Gregory Hwy again and head for Rolleston, then Emerald, having had one of our most enjoyable and memorable weeks, since the journey began.