Wine Trails - Barossa & Clare Valleys

Autumn colours at Seppeltsfield
Barossa Valley.

There is something about being in a wine producing area. Driving through the rolling hills on dirt roads, winding through the vines, and past those beautiful little boutique wineries. It is a wonderful experience. At this time of the year, the vines have done their work for the vintage, and are now showing their glorious autumn colours, waiting for the arduous job of pruning to commence.


The Barossa Valley has come a long way since families of German immigrants arrived in the 1830's, escaping religious persecution back home. We stayed at Nuriootpa, at the Barossa Valley Holiday Park, which is an easy walk into town, and set in park lands beside the local playing fields. We liked it a lot. A little further down the road, are the equally, in fact quainter villages, of Tanunda and Angaston. We spent most of our time in and around these three towns. The big wine companies have a strong presence here. The wineries are huge. Jacobs Creek, Penfolds, and Wolf Blass, would be the biggest of the big. What a story is the life of Wolf Blass, and it is extremely well told at the Wolf Blass Visitors Centre, just off the main highway, and well worth a visit. From poor, immigrant wine technician, to Australia's most awarded wine maker, his life has been without peer in the Australian wine industry. He is still going strong, peddling the virtues of his wine, around the world, as a wine ambassador for the company. Is it a sign of the times, that we are the only visitors at the centre, for the duration of our visit?

Home to some great Barossa Shiraz.

We favour trying the wines at some of the smaller boutique wineries. Our favourites from this visit to the Barossa, were Elderton and Kellermiester. Elderton have been producing wonderful, award winning reds for years. A few bottles are now travelling with us! Kellermiester was new to us, started by a young family who appear to have a flair for marketing. We spent a fascinating hour or so chatting with a family member, tasting their products. They are a 5 Red Star Halliday rated winery,  so know a thing or two about making red wine. Beautiful, big fruit flavours. Again, we have a few new travelling companions.

Historic Seppeltsfield.

The mausoleum at Seppeltsfield.

For us, no trip to the Barossa is complete, without a visit to the historic Seppeltsfield Winery. What a place. The huge avenues of date palms herald your arrival at the estate, passing the Roman inspired mausoleum perched on a hilltop, surrounded by palms, and the final resting place of 27 family members, you enter the winery precinct. It is an amazing collection of stone buildings, that are both the winery and the family homestead. As the country's premier producer of fortified wines, including the iconic Para Port, the huge stone cellars house hundreds of huge vats of maturing ports and other fortifieds. There are also picnic grounds, a cafe, and it is just the most wonderful place to walk around and soak up the history.

The Chef & The Cook (Maggie)

Maggie Beer's Pheasant Farm Shop.

Another place we can never go past, is Maggie Beers Pheasant Farm Shop. What a remarkable lady she is. Without a doubt our personal favourite cook. From a humble start farming pheasants in the Barossa with her husband, they have created a huge international food business. Her food isn't fancy, just bloody good! Wonderful flavours, her terrines and pates, puddings and roasts, are legendary with most (except the Heart Foundation!). Today, she has the Farm shop, not far from Nuriootpa. Sitting beside the lake, it is a wonderful setting to showcase her produce. You can buy her entire range, or sit and enjoy some of her signature dishes, overlooking the lake. I had to have the warm game terrine, in a pastry case served with fresh green salad and her home made relish, washed down with a Barossa Shiraz. WOW! Carol had the Minestrone Soup with Chicken and a crusty roll, another wow! We walked around the lake, came back through the shop, and left with a bag full of goodies that included pates, jams, relish and her renowned verjuice. A delightful lunchtime experience.

Huge Vats full of Port at Seppeltsfield.

Other little places worth a mention, were the cafe in Tanunda called Nosh, that does excellent coffee and home made cakes. The quite amazing Wohlers Department Store at Tanunda. It is a step back in time. Two levels of giftware, kitchenware, furniture and toys and good old fashioned service. It even has a cafe, hidden away behind the stairs. Over in Angaston, is the lovely Clouds eatery, that does great coffee and lunch, and on the way stop up at the Mehngers Lookout to check out the expansive view and way out sculptures. Angaston also has some great old stone buildings and parks.

Camped at Clare. 

Carolyn & Steph.

Darrin & Matthew

Gorgeous Little Hayley

We took a call from our friend Stephanie, who lives in that other great wine area, the Clare Valley. She has called to tell us to come early to Clare, as the weekend is the annual Gourmet Food and Wine Festival. So we pack up a couple of days early and head for Clare, just over 130 kms away to the north of Adelaide. Here we are staying at Steph and Darren's property. They have 13 acres just north of Clare. The property has an olive grove and a few sheep, and we set up beside the shed, surrounded by their little farm and the next door vineyard. Very Nice indeed. Carolyn met Steph at Balmain, as her hairdresser, and became friends. Steph also does all the beauty treatments as well as massage. She has plied her trade on cruise ships, and took on the role aboard Orion, the amazing small adventure cruise ship that travels places like The Kimberley, New Guinea, and Antarctica. She met Darrin, who was, and still is, an Expedition Manager on board Orion 1, and the rest, as they say, is history! Steph grew up on a farm at nearby Auburn, so has returned to be near her family, and Darrin's family is currently relocating to Clare, from Western Australia, so most of the family will be together. They now have two little children, Matthew who is two, and Hayley who is 4 months. They are lovely kids. Life threw Steph and Darrin a real curve ball, when little Hayley was born with Down's Syndrome. Time will tell the extent of the challenges they face, but they are so determined to ensure the best possible outcome, that we know they will. Hayley is the most gorgeous little girl.

Soaking up the atmosphere at
Seven Hills Winery.

Seven Hills Winery.

Sunday was a fantastic day, as we joined Steph, Darren and the kids, and many of their friends, touring the wineries and enjoying the wine, food and entertainment being provided. This is a huge event for the Clare Valley, and the area is packed with visitors. Lucky we didn't have to be at the caravan park, it was full and overflowing into the nearby showgrounds and racecourse. We started at O'Leary Walker with scrambled eggs & smoked salmon, plus some bubbly to wash it down. There were people everywhere, being entertained by some good country rock singers.  From there we headed for Seven Hills Winery. What a change of pace! This winery is run by the Catholic Church, who have taken alter wine to a new dimension! Sure they still send some wine to the Vatican, but a lot more goes to the heathens! Lovely wine too! The setting is wonderful, with the beautiful large stone church and other buildings, set among the tranquil gardens and vineyards. This is my kind of religion! Next stop was Kilikanoon. This is another Halliday 5 Red Star winery. It has the distinction of producing the "World's Best" red wine, as judged by an International Wine Show in Paris(2009 I think). The Oracle Shiraz, was not on the free tasting list! Here we enjoyed a great lunch of Soup and Pumpkin & Feta Tart, plus some lovely wines. Last stop was Knappsteins, where the music was very loud and the crowd was very young. Yes folks, we are noticing these things these days!

The vines around Skillogalee Winery.

We had some lovely times with Steph and Darrin and the kids. Lovely family times, with home cooked meals and lovely local wines. Carolyn & I explored the region. It is Australia's leading Riesling area. The lovely Clare Valley Rieslings are legendary. There is the "Riesling Trail", an old railway line, that has been converted to a cycle and walking track, and winds it's way for miles through the entire valley. We visited a number of great small wineries. Pikes, which is not really small, Paulette's, Claymore, Mitchell, Greg Cooley ( who is a true extrovert and made us feel like part of the family!), and Skillogalee, where the restaurant is probably more famous than the winery, and based on the lunch we enjoyed, rightly so.

Dust storm between Clare and Adelaide.

Carolyn had a lovely girly day with Steph, complete with massage a hair cut, and the time went all too quickly. Our weather had been mixed. The nights were very, very, very, very cold, with frost most mornings, but the days were mostly sunny. Our little heater worked overtime to keep the caravan warm, and the electric blankets have been wonderful. The time really flew by, and it was all too soon to set course for Adelaide. We said our goodbyes, on a really windy day. Thankfully it was a tail wind. We headed out of the Clare Valley and started to cross the plains, towards Adelaide. This area is in the grain belt, but at present is almost in drought. Farmers are waiting patiently for rain, so they can sow a winter crop in those ploughed, dry, dusty paddocks. The further we drive, the windier it gets, and soon we are driving in a dust storm! Boy what this country can throw at you. We can now add dust storm to the wind, rain, hail and snow we have seen so far!


Adelaide for a week, before Robyn arrives from Sydney, to join us for the trip up through the Red Centre. We have decided to be lazy. John has a bit of a cold which he has now shared with the sexy voiced Carolyn, so some recuperation is necessary. The weather has been wild, with strong winds, and lots of rain, and very cold. The good news is that those dry areas where we had dust storms, have now had 40mm of rain, so the farmers are madly seeding the paddocks.

Our long lost Adelaide friends,
Carmel & Geoff Williams

Our only task was to track down Carmel & Geoff, a couple who Carolyn met on her round Australia odyssey in 1974. We have since seen them twice, once when we came to Adelaide for the Australian Grand Prix, and once when they called in on us at Illawong. Both visits were in the early/mid 1980's. So a get together was long overdue. We have enjoyed a lovely casual meal and evening at there home, and last night they came down to our place for dinner and drinks. It has been fantastic reminiscing and catching up on all that has happened in those almost 30 years that flew by. Catching up with friends is undoubtedly one of the highlights of our journey. 

Echuca and Along the Murray.

We leave Melbourne heading for Echuca on the Murray River. We drive out along the highway towards Bendigo, and it isn't long before we are at Heathcote. We stop at a wonderful bakery for early lunch. The place is packed. Now the wine lovers among you will be familiar with the Heathcote region. It is one of Australia's premium red wine producing areas, and the road is lined with the vineyards showing the colours of autumn. There is nothing much better than a Heathcote shiraz!


We drive on towards Echuca, arriving mid afternoon, and find the Echuca Top Tourist Holiday Park, situated at the end of the "old town" area. It is a big park, right on the banks of the Murray River, and with friendly staff we find our site and settle in. Driving into the park was a hoot! We think it is the friendliest caravan park in Australia, as everyone is coming out to look at us. We wind down the windows to acknowledge the waves, and hear the reason for their interest. Our newly serviced suspension is creaking like a 90 year old jogger!! The noise is deafening!! A quick call to the service company, puts us at ease, along with a liberal coating of lubricant!!

Restored Paddle Steamers at Echuca.

Echuca is a prosperous town, heavily reliant on tourism. The town itself is in two sections, the old port section, which is beautifully restored and even has the wharf undergoing a refurbishment, and the new business district. It has a nice feel to it. The old days of busy life as a river port are reproduced, with a number of restored paddle steamers offering lunch & dinner cruises, or simple 1 to 1.5 hour cruises, and even 3 night packages along the river. There are also dozens of luxury houseboats for hire, many of which are very large and very smart, with 4 double bedrooms, large entertaining lounges and BBQ's, plus huge ice chests for those that favour a cool beverage!

Lots of damage from the recent floods.

Also along the Murray are some of Australia's best golfing destinations. Here at Echuca, the golf is across the river in the sister NSW town of Moama. The golf club is Rich River Golf Club, which has a huge licensed club full of pokies, a motel to accommodate the golfers, and two magnificent Peter Thompson designed 18 hole championship courses. They are in great condition, and Carol & I enjoyed a social round together, and then later in the week John played in both the Thursday and Saturday member's competitions. Whilst the golf was average, the local members were great fun to play with, and a wealth of information about what's good and what's not, in the area. Lawn bowls is also big business along the Murray.They play for serious prizes including cash, and lots of people in the caravan park are drawn to the town for the bowls! If the golf doesn't improve, a bag of bowls may yet be purchased!!


We didn't travel far from town. It was nice just walking through the Old part of town. John got lost in two of the best caravan accessory shops he's come across, and there were plenty of shops where Carol could also be entertained. Add some great cafes and pubs, and it is a nice relaxing place to spend a week or two. We took a liking to the Star Hotel, drawn by the happy hour and two for one drinks, plus the excellent wood fired pizza, and some good live music on the weekends. 

A cruise on the EmmyLou.

We took a cruise on the Emmy Lou. It was a nice day and we just headed up river and back over a leisurely hour and a half. We were a bit disappointed at the lack of commentary. We were told the history of every paddle steamer tied up along the port, and then didn't hear another word! The river was showing the effects of the big floods earlier in the year. Lots of trees down, and the river bank badly washed away in parts. Still, it was a lazy way to fill in an afternoon, with the trees full of chattering Corella and sulphur crested cockatoos. There are so many of these guys along the river, and as the sun goes down each afternoon, the noise around the caravan park is deafening as the huge flocks relocate to their night time resting place. It is a terrific sound. Carol reckons they sound so happy!!

Lazing along the river.

So the week in Echuca has flown by. We leave on Mother's Day and head for Adelaide. I have arranged a Skype hook up with my brother Neil, so we can say hi to Mum on Mother's Day. We stop in the small river town of Cohuna, and call. As usual mum gets overcome at seeing our picture on the screen, but it is so nice to see her all dressed up and ready for Mother's Day lunch with the family. We also get to catch up with most of the family, who are at Mum's for morning tea, which is really nice. It is times like this we feel that little bit homesick. Soon, we get back on the road, heading for our overnight stay at Robinvale, right on the banks of the Murray. 

Fully restored Catalina Bomber.

Before arriving at Robinvale we pass through the lake district around Kerang. One of the lakes and townships is Lake Boga, and we are fascinated by a sign that points to the Catalina Flying Boat Museum. We take a detour and are gob smacked at what we find. Inside a huge hanger is a fully restored Catalina Bomber, with its 107 feet wingspan. The history of Lake Boga as a secret WWII flying boat air base is fully laid out. Once the Japanese bombed Darwin, a safe place to hide and service the remaining Allied amphibious aircraft. Lake Boga was selected, and a huge military camp was constructed servicing Australian, American and Dutch aircraft. Thousands of service men and women were based here.

Overnight drive thru at Robinvale.

Robinvale is a delightful caravan park and we note it down for a future longer stay. Next morning we cross the border into South Australia. All our remaining fruit and vegetables are confiscated at the border. Really strict about the dreaded fruit fly. We had eaten all the fruit before we got to the border, but the spuds and onions were deemed treacherous, so they went too!! We stopped in Mildura for early lunch, then on to Renmark and Pingara, which looked like really nice caravan parks, and again were noted down for a future stay. This country is so amazing. There are so many places to explore.


Now safe in South Australia, we stop at one of the many fruit stalls, and restock. New season oranges,apples, grapes and tomatoes. We even bought some home dried nectarines, which are delicious. Soft and juicy, and so full of flavour. Not hard like the supermarket stuff!! We drive through thousands of acres of vineyards. They line the road on both sides as far as you can see. Some of the bulk wine producers like Berri Estates and Banrock Station, have dozens of giant stainless steel tanks, standing as evidence of the volumes of Chateau Cardboard that goes into bladders and boxes, rather than bottles.


Mid afternoon, we arrive at the Barossa Valley, heart of Australia's wine industry, and check into the Top Tourist Holiday Park at Nuriootpa. We have a huge site alongside the adjoining playing fields and get settled in, for the coming week.

Melbourne - May 2012

The wake up call on board Spirit of Tasmania, comes at 5.45am. A quick shower, and we are called to our vehicle at 6.30am. By 6.40am we are in the streets of Port Melbourne. The area has been revitalised in recent years, with many apartment buildings and trendy shops and cafes. We find a delightful little French Boulangerie opening its doors, so it will be croque monsieur and coffee for breakfast. Both are delicious! We sit and watch the area come alive, with Lycra clad cyclists, joggers, and people walking their dogs. It reminds us so much of Balmain & Rozelle.


Any more coffee, and our eyes will be permanently open, so we head for The Big4 Melbourne Holiday Park at North Coburg, just 10 kms away. It is still before 9.00am, but the staff are welcoming and friendly, and put us in a temporary spot, until the sleepy heads vacate our designated site. By 12.00 noon we are set up and settled in. It is a lovely park with excellent facilities, and there are shopping centres, and shopping strips galore, within 5 minutes drive. We also have tram, bus, and train services to the city, all very close by, and even though public transport for seniors in Melbourne is not as cheap as Sydney, we can get a day pass for $3.70 each!!


We are in Melbourne to get some work done on the caravan, and will also take the opportunity to get the car serviced. Getting work done on the caravan is a logistical nightmare, as we have to find somewhere to stay, empty the fridge, and then move our personal belongings such as clothes and toiletries, as well as empty out any areas of the caravan requiring work. We have booked a cabin at the same caravan park, which is cosy, and spend most of Sunday afternoon transferring things from the caravan. Mission accomplished, we are ready to deliver the caravan to the repairer on Monday morning. They need it for 4 - 5 days. There is nothing major, but like a car or a home, it requires maintenance, so the wheel bearings, brakes, and suspension need to be checked as does the plumbing, and electrical, plus we have a list of minor things that have either broken or worn out. As it turns out, the awning which has played up since we took delivery,  is totally stuffed, and has to be replaced, so minor becomes major very quickly. The same applies to the car, so we leave behind a large chunk of money, but can hit the road again, knowing we are in good mechanical order.

The arcades of Melbourne.

So we have time to explore Melbourne. A train into the city for a look around, a tram into Lygon Street to sample the food and cafe culture. We really like Melbourne. The cafes and restaurants, coffee and food scene, the shopping, are all so different to anywhere else in Australia. It feels like Europe in so many parts. There is nothing else like walking through the bustling arcades of the city, that link the main streets. Some are informal and full of small cafes and food bars, with spruikers calling out their relevant virtues to the crowds, and others, like The Block Arcade, resplendent with crystal chandeliers and designer shops. The refurbished Myer and David Jones department stores on Bourke Street Mall, are world class retail establishments where one can get lost for days!! Lygon Street in Carlton remains one of the great places to eat, have coffee or a drink, or just be seen. Coffee and cake at Brunetti's is an institution. You have to see this place to believe it! Baristas and waiters, dressed in starched white shirts and long black aprons, buzzing around like flies. Hundreds of people, many exquisitely dressed in expensive clothes, sitting inside and out, enjoying great coffee and amazing sweets, from early morning until very late. You can sit there for hours, just watching this moving feast of people.

Masani's and 29 wonderful years.

It was our birthdays and wedding anniversary, whilst in Melbourne. I remembered 20 years ago, how in my corporate life, we used to go to a wonderful Italian Restaurant just off Lygon Street. Would you believe that it still operates, under the same family ownership!! We managed to book a table for Saturday night. Masani's remains a food institution, at the higher end of pricing, serving the most fabulous Italian food, presented superbly, in a warm relaxed atmosphere. We had a memorable night at Masani's, especially as I was with the love of my life, celebrating 29 wonderful years together, and not entertaining some pompous Buyer from Myer!

Elevation restaurant at Emerald Vic.

We have sold our kayak. It was living on the roof of the car and not getting anywhere near enough time in the water, so we decided to see what we could do on good old EBay. We listed whilst in Tasmania, and sold it in 3 days to a guy who lives in the Dandenongs, just east of Melbourne, so we agreed to deliver it when we hit the mainland. We took the lovely drive to the little village of Emerald, dropped off the kayak and decided on a joint celebration lunch of birthdays and successful sale. Carolyn spied a place called Elevation, and we had a lovely Tapas lunch and a glass of wine.

John, Barbara, Carolyn and Daphne.

By way of a wonderful sense of timing, we also managed to catch up with friends we haven't seen for a very long time, who were in Melbourne at the corresponding time. Firstly it was our dear friends Daphne and Barbara, who live in Auckland NZ, and who we haven't seen for 15 years. Carolyn met Daphne when she went to work at Civil & Civic as a 19 year old girl. Daphne moved on to Auckland to marry and raise a family, but the two have remained firm friends by mail, phone and more recently, regular email. Barbara is Daphne's close friend, and we have met up on occasions when they have visited Australia, and our rare visits to NZ. It was so wonderful to be able to meet up. Daphne had decided to keep it a secret from Barbara, and so the look of surprise on her face when we walked into the hotel room with Daphne, was priceless! We headed into Lygon Street, found a nice little Italian cafe, and the stories began. Thank God we weren't paying by the word. We'd be washing dishes for eternity!! The hours just sped by. It was a memorable night, shared by true friends.

John and Angela.

We also phoned Angela. Now, Angela worked at Menai Blinds when we first began at Gaymoir Products. She is full of fun, and we got on really well. She moved back to Melbourne about seven years ago, and we keep in touch through email. She jumped at the chance to catch up, and we enjoyed a long, long, long lunch at Northland shopping centre, on a cold, wet and miserable day. Another great afternoon sharing stories of travel and life.


Last thing on our schedule, was a visit back to Bendigo, about 2 hours out of Melbourne. Carolyn had seen that the Bendigo Art Gallery, which is very progressive, was hosting an exhibition called "Grace Kelly - Style Icon". We had seen another excellent exhibition last time we were in Bendigo, "The White Wedding Dress". This one was really good, with a large number of the original designer label outfits she had worn both in the movies, and in her real life princess role. There was also a wonderful Audio Visual show, splicing together parts from her movies, and old news reel footage of her engagement, wedding,  and royal life in Monaco, as well as a lot of home movies of her young family. All in all, it was well worth the visit.
So that about sums up our time in Melbourne. The weather was, well, Melbourne!! We had it all, but mostly, it felt like winter is well and truly around the corner.

Tassie - Bridport

Well here we go, onto our last destination in Tasmania. Where did those three months go?
North from Hobart, we took the Heritage Hwy to Launceston. Back past all those beautiful historical homes and towns, we just couldn't resist one last coffee stop at Campbelltown, and Oatlands, and Ross, and Longford. Only kidding!! We made one stop in Oatlands, at the Bakery opposite the mill site, in a beautiful old convict built, sandstone building.

Our lovely site at Bridport Caravan Park.

Driving through Launceston, we travelled up the eastern side of the Tamar Valley, through the vineyards and on up to Georgetown, and Low Head at the mouth of the Tamar River. The area around Georgetown is quite industrial. There are two power stations and an aluminium smelter. It is also the point from which electricity is exported and sold across Bass Straight, to Victoria.The area also has a lot of maritime history, as it was a base for pilot ships, for vessels entering the busy trading ports along the Tamar. There are a lot of restored buildings, and historical walks around the area.The caravan park here was to be our fall back if the caravan park at Bridport, which we had heard mixed reports about, was not good. We didn't have to worry, Bridport Caravan Park was great.

On the 1st tee at Barnbougle Lost Farm.

The lady at the caravan park was most helpful. She gave us 6 sites that she thought would suit us, and told us that we were free to choose any site that was vacant. We chose an elevated site opposite a small beach. A walking track went past, just below our site, which gave us a steady stream of locals to talk to. It also provided a pathway into the township, about 15minutes walk. We really loved the site and the town of Bridport. It was a nice little town with all that we needed to survive. Two pubs, a great bakery, lovely little cafe and a good supermarket. What else could you need? Oh I know, two of the worlds best golf courses, just 5 minutes out of town!! The magnificent, and now world acclaimed, Barnbougle Dunes Golf Links, and its new addition, Barnbougle Lost Farm Golf Links, are now a major reason why people visit Bridport, and I have to confess, it was my motivation. Something every golfer has on their bucket list. Now only 93 to go!!

Rolling fairways among the dunes.

A little indulgence please, for the golfers among our readers. www.barnbougledunes.com.au 
www.barnbouglelostfarm.com.au 

A Golfer's dream.

Clubhouse at Barnbougle Lost Farm.

The courses have been designed along the lines of the great Scottish and Irish links courses. The magnificent sand dunes and coastal location were perfect, and renowned course designers Tom Doak and Mike Clayton did the rest. These are Public Golf Courses, both are walk only, and each course has 4 separate tees, to ensure that golfers of both genders and all abilities enjoy their golfing experience. When you add the local rules, that allow balls to be dropped out of fairway divots and footprints in bunkers, as well as lost balls being treated as hazards, thus allowing you to drop a ball near where you lost it, makes it very enjoyable indeed. Big wide fairways, and huge greens, it is an unforgettable golfing experience. The club houses at both courses are excellent, and there is accommodation at both, as well. Barnbougle Dunes has cabins, whilst Barnbougle Lost Farm has a new Resort Hotel with Day Spa and a beautiful restaurant perched atop the dunes, looking down over the course and along the beach. We enjoyed a wonderful long lunch here on our last day. Beautiful fresh local seafood washed down with an excellent local pinot grigio. It doesn't get much better, and was a perfect culinary end to our Tassie adventure.

"Renovators Delight" at Gladstone

Between golfing adventures, we enjoyed the many wonderful coastal walks around Bridport. We took a drive out to another beachside town about 40 kms east, and with the intriguing name of Tomahawk. Apart from some lovely beaches, there is nothing at Tomahawk, apart from lots of fishing shacks. A little further down the road is Gladstone, and having thought that Tomahawk was close to the end of the earth, we soon realised we were wrong. Gladstone is!! We were tempted to pick up a bargain at the local real estate agent, but resisted the temptation. We drove back to Bridport, amazed at how modern and out of order it is with the surrounding area. Beautiful modern homes, both permanent and holiday. One can only assume it is the result of the Barnbougle influence, and that of the nearby premium wineries. Some of Tasmania's best known wineries are in the nearby Piper's River district. Names such as Piper's Brook, and the magnificent Aussie sparkling Jansz, are from this region. Many of the lesser known local wineries are just as good, but it is a shame they are so expensive. The cellar door price for local Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir is $30 to $40 per bottle. Not many people can afford to drink wine at these prices on an everyday basis. But I guess the answer is they are not everyday drinking wines. Their volumes are small when compared to mainland producers. Their quality is mostly high, so therefore can be sold at premium prices. The great shame is that all wines are not great or even good, yet they command the same pricing!

Relaxing in Bridport

Bridport provided us with mostly good weather and a chance to relax, and reminisce over what has been an amazing time in a wonderful part of our great country. The scenery, the history, the wonderful produce and friendly people, have all made it a time to remember.

So on Friday 20th April, we packed up. This had been a very quiet caravan park with hardly ever more that 10 caravans staying at a time, and when you consider the park has 140 sites, you can look pretty lost! We took the chance to give the caravan a good scrub and wash, before we hitched up and headed for Devonport. We found a parking spot for the caravan and car and then did a last look through the centre of town, with the Spirit of Tasmania looming large in the background.

At around 5.30pm we joined the queue to board the boat, and at 7.30pm we were sitting on the deck, drink in hand, watching the lights of Devonport slide by as we turned around in the Mersey River, and headed out to sea, and our overnight trip to Melbourne. The seas were quite calm, and we enjoyed a smooth sailing.

Tassie - New Norfolk, Port Arthur, Hobart Town.

Along the Derwent at New Norfolk.

After a wonderful stay along the Huon Trail, we headed out to New Norfolk along the Derwent River west of Hobart. It is a lovely little town and our caravan park is right beside the river, and very close to town. We plan to have a lazy few days. John has managed to get an infected ingrown toenail, and needs to see a doctor, and New Norfolk has a very good Medical Centre. It isn't long before Dr. Jenny has sliced, diced and wrapped the toe, and now just a couple days of rest with no shoes, and all is well.

Along the road to Lake Pedder.

Gordon River Dam.

We have come out here, mainly because it is a good base to explore one of the only other wilderness areas we haven't been to, Lake Pedder, the Gordon River Dam and Lake Gordon. It is a lovely drive out to Lake Pedder, through the forest areas around Medina, and the Mt. Field National Park. The scenery is spectacular, with vast forest areas giving way to flat plains, and those huge granite mountains. It is one of the last bastions of the forest protesters, and we pass one of their roadside tent camps. What a mess!! But I guess it is all made from recycled materials and solar powered!! Maybe Bob Brown will return now he doesn't have a job!!. All along the road in the forest areas, are large quantities of bee hives, placed in openings in the forest. The bee industry is very big in Tasmania, with lots of honey produced here. The hives are moved all over the place, to take advantage of which forest trees are in flower. When we reach Lake Pedder, there is a magnificent lookout that also provides some of the history surrounding the lake's establishment. 

Bee Hives along the
road to Lake Pedder.

The original Lake Pedder, is now deep below the surface of the new much bigger lake, and there is still an active movement trying to get the lake drained and returned to its original form. Good Luck!! We drove all the way out to the Gordon River Dam. Gone are the glory days of protest. We have seen only 3 other tourists all day! The dam is quite amazing. It is built across a very narrow section of the river, and holds back a huge volume of water. The Power Station at the dam, is operated by remote control from Hobart!!

Hop fields near New Norfolk.

The area around New Norfolk is lovely farming country. The Derwent Valley is big for hops, a crop you don't see a lot of. Apparently it requires a lot of sunlight.  On the fantastic tour of Boags Brewery I did, I was surprised to learn how little hops are used in the brewing process, and how they need 16 hours of sunlight a day to reach maturity, so places like Tassie are perfect. This years crops have all been harvested, but the fields were being prepared for the next crop. They grow on a vine, and it can be really long, supported by wire trainers and poles. Looks like really tall grapes!!

The Salmon Ponds at Plenty.

Another great attraction to visit is the Salmon Ponds, at nearby Plenty. This is the home of Australia's first trout hatchery, with the eggs being brought out from England, which was no mean feat given there was no refrigeration. It took a few attempts, but they finally succeeded,  and now the place is a wonderful picnic area set among beautiful gardens, beside the Plenty River, as well as still serving as a trout hatchery, to replenish the rivers and lakes of Tasmania, and as a museum showing the history of trout fishing. We spent a lovely afternoon walking among the trees and ponds, feeding the fat trout and salmon.


With the toe now fully healed, we packed up and headed for the Hobart Airport Big 4 Holiday Park. We had booked here for a week, months ago, to avoid the Easter Holiday rush, and allow us time to relax and spend time in Hobart, and complete our unfinished tour of Port Arthur. It is a lovely new park, with large concrete slabs, and fantastic new facilities, and the manager, John, is very friendly and helpful. Unfortunately, on our first day, we got a bit of sad news. John's Aunt Mary, his dad's only sister, had passed away at the grand old age of 91. John had a long family association with Aunty Mim, and wanted to go to the funeral, which was to be on the Wednesday after Easter. So on the Tuesday he headed for Sydney, and was home on Thursday night. It was good to see mum and the family, albeit briefly. Thanks Keith and Nancy for putting me up,and looking after me. Carol put the time to good use, with a bit of spring cleaning, and a trip into town on the courtesy bus, for bit of retail therapy. Judging by her success, she must have missed me a lot!!

Tessellated Pavement
near Eagle Hawk Neck.

Over the Easter break, we made the most of our available time. Saturday, we were back at the famous Salamanca Markets. It was cold and windy with some showers, but we enjoyed our walk around these fantastic markets. We found a wonderful bakery nearby, called "Daci Daci". Great coffee and goodies, and excellent wood fired breads. The place was packed.

The Dog Line at Eagle Hawk Neck

Sunday was back to Port Arthur. We had our "Tickets of Leave" from our first visit. This is a great idea that allows you to get back into Port Arthur on future visits for 2 years. You pay a small fee up front, then come and go as you please. Along the way we called in at Eagle Hawk Neck, to see the tessellated pavements. This amazing geological event, just looks like pavers! We also read about the "Dog Line".  For those of you who know the area, Eagle Hawk Neck is a very narrow piece of land, that you cross to get to the Tasman Peninsula and Port Arthur. To stop convicts escaping by land, a number of savage dogs were chained in a line, across the entire width of the land, and just so they could not reach each other, but so close that a man could not go between! It proved very successful!!
We also went out to see the Blowhole and the Tasman Arch. The sea was benign, so the Blowhole was a non event, but the geology around the area is fantastic.

John & Carol at Port Arthur.

Port Arthur ruins.

The Old Catholic Church, Port Arthur.

Part of the Commandant's Cottage.

Port Arthur is a wonderful part of Australia's history. For those who haven't been for a few years, there is now a great Visitors' Centre, with fantastic interactive displays, and a good restaurant/cafe. The grounds are beautifully kept, and when you see and read what was at the site in the period from the 1830's to the 1860's, it is a hard to comprehend. Thankfully, that horrible atrocity committed by the madman Martin Bryant, is remembered in a very low key way, with a remembrance pool and cross, and the old cafe has never been restored. Your admission includes a tour with much of the history explained, and a cruise out to the Island of the Dead. It is unimaginable that so many people are buried on such a small rocky island. It is a huge area, as is evidenced by the fact that this is our second day. Much of the wooden work, such as roofs and windows, have gone from the stone buildings, but they are doing a wonderful job of restoring and maintaining the history of the place. Many of the old buildings have interactive displays, and staff on hand to explain who lived there and what daily life was like. It is very well done. As you read about the lives and times of those convicts, you cannot help but be moved. The suffering they went through, and the things they achieved, were quite extraordinary.

The Remarkable Cave

Leaving Port Arthur we decided to drive around the southern part of the Tasman Peninsula. We saw a sign that said to Remarkable Cave, and it was! We saw some fantastic scenery along the way, and when we reached the end of the road, we followed a track and a steep timber stairway down to the Remarkable Cave. It was an opening that had been cut through from the sea to a small beach. You could peer through to the sea. A local arrived, and was really unhappy that there was no sand!! We didn't understand what he was on about, but he explained that at really low tides, a lot of sand is washed through the tunnel, and you can walk through to the beach on the sea side!! Today wasn't that day. We drove back to the caravan park through a host of small seaside villages full of holiday shacks, and because it was Easter, full of holiday makers.

John freezing on Mt. Wellington.

Heading for the viewing platform
Mt.Wellington.

Monday was John's mum's birthday. Can't believe my mum is 88. It dawned really cold, but crystal clear. We had arranged with brother Neil, to set up a Skype call to surprise mum on her birthday. We heard that there would be snow up on Mt. Wellington, so headed up to see how good the weatherman was. He was spot on! It was snowing and it was freezing!! How amazing it was. We left the cold, bright sunshine behind in Hobart and soon arrived in Antarctica!! It was unfortunate that Telstra spoiled the party. Our Internet connection was poor, and unsuitable for a Skype call. It is unfortunate that we have had the same problem throughout Tasmania too often. Talking to the locals, it happens all the time, so Telstra needs to get their act together. The other providers just need to get an act! Would you believe, that tour providers ask for a phone number and carrier. If it isn't Telstra, they say they will take no responsibility, if they can't contact you in case of change!! 
We headed back into Hobart, in search of a hot lunch. We found the China Town part of town, spied a dumpling house, and were soon tucking into delicious steaming dumplings and noodles, just what the doctor ordered. That evening we even took in a movie. It was the first movie we've seen in 3 months! We saw "The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel", and had a real good laugh.
Back at the Airport Big 4 Holiday, life was a moving feast of people and camper vans. It seems that heaps of hirer's use the park as a first or last stopover. In addition we had a a Chinese Junior Badminton Team staying in the cabins, as well as a few caravan owners just like us. There was always something going on. We enjoyed our stay, and on Friday morning we packed up, and headed for our last port of call in Tasmania, Bridport, on the far North East Coast. It is time for John to indulge in a little golf, at the world famous Barnbougle Dunes golf course, just out of Bridport. 

Tassie - The Huon Trail

Famous for delicious apples.

The Huon Valley and the entire Huon Trail, have captivated us. The waterways, the forests, the mountains, the gorgeous little villages and towns, the amazing variety of fresh produce, the wonderful cafes and restaurants, and friendly people, make this our favourite part of Tasmania.

We started our stay in the far south, at the lovely little town of Dover. The caravan park is right opposite the beach, nestled under a hill. It is a fantastic setting, and such a shame that the manager is without doubt the most rude, unfriendly, unhelpful person, we have met in Tasmania. Thankfully, the setting soothed me, but I can tell you that this guy is single handedly dragging the gay community of Tasmania down. Bitch!! But not even he, could take the gloss off our stay.

On an early morning walk, we met a couple walking their Scottish Highland Terrier called Fergus. They explained to us that the area was popular with Hobart based people, like them, who had a "shack" in the region. Some of the "shacks" are quite grand. The towns therefore have a lot more houses than people, and the services of the towns seem minimal for the number of homes. They did tell us the good spots to go to eat, and there weren't many!! We met them at The Post Office Restaurant that night. It only opens for dinner, and only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, but it is good. We shared some magnificent, local Dover mussels, and a terrific wood fired pizza.

The coast near Southport.

The Whale Sculpture at Cockle Creek.

Driving south, the scenery is just one wow after another. We travelled through the township of Southport, a real holiday centre full of "shacks" set around a beautiful bay. A little further along the way is the tiny village of Ida Bay, home to a small gauge railway that uses an old mining track to run tourists to the waterfront and back. We opted not to wait the 2 hours until the next run, and instead kept going south through the magnificent forests that line the shore, all the way to Cockle Creek, as far south as you can drive your car anywhere in Australia. Entering the National Park, we then walked out to the Whale Sculpture, a magnificent life size bronze sculpture of a Southern Right Whale calf, that represents both a tribute to the whaling industry long ago, and the fact that the species has come back from the brink of extinction. So now we can say we have been to the extremities of our country to the North, South and East!! Only one to go!!!

Giant Swamp Gum.

North of Dover, is the timber town of Geevestown. We took the coastal drive through Police Point, which winds right along the water, past fish farms and processing plants, as well as through some wonderful grazing country, and some little bays full of "shacks", almost on the beach. It is a magnificent drive. We stopped at one of the many roadside honesty stalls, and bought our first bag of apples. Royal Galas, and they are so crisp and fresh, and only cost $2 per bag! 

Cantilever on Tahune Airwalk.

Ready to walk the
suspension bridge.

Geevestown is quaint, and has a Timber Heritage Centre to tell us about the history of the industry in the area, and can sell us our ticket for the famous Tahune Airwalk, which is about 30kms away in the unbelievable forests, which are home to the tallest hardwood trees in the world. Most are Swamp Gums and Grey Gums, and they are huge, the tallest being 100metres tall. The airwalk is amazing, as it winds through the tree tops. It creaks and it sways, and the cantilever, out over the river, is only for the brave. Carol is brave. John took one look at how it was swaying, and chickened out! Having completed the airwalk, we decided to do the long way back, over the two swing bridges. It was a beautiful walk among the forest giants, and across the swinging bridges, back to the car park. A Wonderful afternoon, ended with us stopping off along the way back, at all the marked forestry attractions. The Big Tree was awesome, and the Walk Above the Waters were the picks.

The Wooden Boat Centre.

A little further north is another quaint township called Franklin. It is set on the water, among the apple orchards. Our reason for a stop here, other than coffee at Petty Sessions Cafe, was The Wooden Boat Centre. Here the old crafts of wooden boat building are being kept alive, through students doing TAFE approved courses, building wooden boats. You may have read, or seen on TV, how famous chef Tetsuya, has built a traditional wooden boat, utilising the famous huon pine, and other wonderful local timbers. This boat was built here, and is currently undergoing final fitout just up the river. It was a great tour for two, with a guide, full of passion and salt water in the veins.


We moved from Dover after four nights, and travelled across to the village of Cygnet, and the local caravan park. The park is very basic, but it is the area we want to be in. The manager, Ronnie, is unbelievably helpful, going out of his way to make sure we are happy with our site. It is quite funny, really. We look like the Queen Mary 2 at a row boat regatta! The park is full of some very basic permanents in beaten up old caravans, as well as dozens of small igloo tents, belonging to the backpackers who are in town to pick apples and strawberries. Along the way, and just out of town, we stopped at Pop's Place, a roadside honesty stall, full of fresh fruit and vegies, to stock up the larder. The quality, selection and cheap prices are terrific.

Pop's Place - Roadside produce.

Cygnet is very quaint. It is a bit alternative, with lots of hippies stuck in the '60s, as well as a lot of gays. Around town, you've never seen so much untidy long grey hair, dreadlocks and harem pants. There are some great cafes in town, especially The Red Velvet Lounge and The Lotus Eaters Cafe. Both had been written up in the Sunday papers, and Carol had kept the articles to be sure we didn't miss a trick! Both were excellent.


A short drive across the peninsula, are the trendier towns of Kettering and Woodbridge. Not many "shacks" here! Kettering has a huge marina, and is the departure point for the ferry to Bruny Island. For many months now, we have been carrying the name of the Woodbridge Smokehouse around with us. We had seen it on the telly, with famous chef Maggie Beer, singing its praises, so we said we had to go when in the area. It proved difficult to find, but a chat with Christine, waitress at the Mermaid Cafe on Kettering Marina, set us on the right path. It is hard to find because it doesn't sell to the public, but Christine assured us to "just mention my name", so armed with directions we set off. We pulled up at a large shed, set high on a hill in an apple orchard. We walked up to an open door, where inside was a guy on the phone. He held up his hand and indicated to give him five minutes. After 15 minutes, he stuck his head out the door and yelled "help yourself to an apple, I'll only be a minute". Three apples later, we finally met Roger Scales (great name for a man who works with fish!), owner of www.woodbridgesmokehouse.com.au What a character!! We really hit it off straight away. We got a tour of the smokehouse, a history of his life and business, a tour of the farm, and when we told him we had sold up and were travelling around Australia, we got a tour of his house, much to his wife's surprise, followed by a sales pitch for his house! He is building a new house further up the hill, and thought we would make really nice neighbours! We waved goodbye to Roger, his wife and two dogs, and left, suitably weighed down with packets of the most wonderful smoked ocean trout, oh and a lemon he picked off the tree, with instructions to "just wave it past the fish as you eat it"!! This was just one of those great moments in life!! We giggled all the way back down the hill.

The isthmus that separates North and
South Bruny Island.

Bruny Island was an all day trip. We had been here when we did the fantastic adventure cruise with Lynne and Paul, and knew then, that we would come back. We started the day at the Mermaid Cafe, and coffee with waitress Christine, where we reported back on our successful visit to the smokehouse.Bruny Island is quite large. It has a North and South side separated by a long isthmus, that is also a penguin rookery. We climbed to the top of the long wooden staircase, built over the dunes, and could see the hundreds of burrows built by the tiny penguins. The view from up top was fantastic.

Carol at Bruny Island Lighthouse.

Bruny is sparsely populated, with only about 650 permanent residents. Again there are lots of "shacks" owned by non residents. The island is famous for the adventure cruise, its beaches and protected waterways, its rugged scenery and for its produce. We sampled it all. We drove from one end of the island to the other. We sampled fantastic Get Shucked oysters, magnificent Bruny Island cheeses and wood fired bread, delicious berries from the berry farm, beautiful soft Pinot Noir at Australia's southern most winery, and had a great lunch at the Bruny Hotel, which surprised us with a Ceasar Salad with a difference. It was topped with crumbed local oysters! Yum! 

Lunch at Peppermint Bay

The final Sunday at Cygnet first saw us at the local market, held every second Sunday. It was an amazing array of locally grown, fresh produce, plus some extraordinary locally made breads, cakes, pies, sauces and relishes. We topped up, including a piece of a wonderful English style pork pie, that tasted as good as it looked! From the market we drove back over to Woodbridge, this time to have lunch at Peppermint Bay, a quite famous out of town eatery. You can actually take their fast catamaran from the Hobart waterfront to the jetty at the restaurant, have a great lunch, and get the boat back, and on a beautiful sunny day the boat was pretty full. We picked a table out on the deck of the bistro, overlooking the water, just perfect for a casual lunch. We shared a lamb & pickled zucchini panini, with some great hand cut chips and aioli, washed down with a glass of Tassie Pinot Gris, just delicious!! 

Fresh fish off the trawler.

Following lunch, it was one last visit to the Kettering Marina, and this time we stumbled across a local fisherman, standing on his trawler, filleting fresh fish, and selling it to anyone who wanted to buy. Guess who was at the front of the queue? So now the freezer is full of fresh fish fillets again, this time morwong, stripey trumpeter, which the locals call the best fish in the sea, and some cod.
So our stay in the Huon area has come to a close. We have loved every minute of it. It is very much our lifestyle. Who knows Roger? We just may be neighbours yet!!!! Keep smoking those  trout, as it will be a condition in the contract!!!