Broome 2016 Continues.

Beautiful Broome.

Our Cable Beach.

After all the buzz and excitement of the Gibb River Road, we were busying ourselves with lots of washing and tidying up. The car was covered in red dust, and badly in need of some TLC, and when I took it to the local self car wash and applied the high pressure hose, it was like a huge hemorrhage, as the red rivers flowed out of every nook and cranny!! The more I washed the more it bled, but after an exhausting couple of hours I had finally triumphed! We restocked the larder, and when all the chores were done headed for Cable Beach to rest and relax on the pure white sands and in the sparkling turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.

Coffee at Million Stars Café.

Welcome to Broome Robyn.

It is still busy around town, and the beach is crowded every day. With our old favourite cafe, The Cool Spot, now operating under a new name and new owners, we have been exploring the options! We have become quite friendly with Stan, the owner of Town Beach Cafe, where the service is excellent, the coffee and the food very good, and the views across Roebuck Bay are to die for. You could probably say that this is our favourite spot. However, Zanders overlooking Cable Beach still beckons us after our morning walk, and a new one called Zookeepers, down the end of the road from our caravan park, is also very good, in fact it is so busy, it is sometimes hard to get into. Bloody tourists!! After some searching, we also found the Million Stars Cafe at the Hovercraft Base. It is a wonderful location, but they really are focused on the Hovercraft business, and don't promote the cafe, which is a shame as the cakes are to die for, but the coffee was just OK, and the service very slow. Still, we aren't ever in a hurry and the views across the Port and Roebuck Bay are quite special. We have also tried The Lock Up, which is one of these shipping container pop up cafes a little off the beaten track. It is OK, but just lacks some zing, and the popular Dragonfly Cafe in the centre of town is busy and so noisy!!

Robyn relaxing at The Pearle.

Outdoor lounge area.

We have also been putting some ideas together, as we only have a week until our friend Robyn flies in for a two week holiday with us. She regularly joins us on our travels, when we are in an area she hasn't been, and we really look forward to welcoming her. We were at the airport for her arrival. Poor Robyn, was exhausted, having missed her connection in Perth due to strong winds and bad weather, so instead of arriving for lunch, she arrived for dinner!! We whisked her out to her accommodation at The Pearle Resort, which is right alongside our caravan park. Her bad day immediately took a huge turn for the better, when they told her they had upgraded her to the Honeymoon Suite for her two week stay!! She couldn't wait to get to the room to see who they had chosen as her surprise hubby, but alas it was a room upgrade only!!! The Pearle's accommodation is apartment style, all built along a tropical, Balinese theme, very open plan, with lush gardens. Many have their own pool, and the honeymoon suite is one of those. It was just lovely, with outdoor lounges and dining spots, a hammock, outdoor bath and shower, and even three TV's, including one outdoors!! Things must have changed a lot in the honeymoon business. We didn't need one TV!!!!!

Entry to Robyn's room.

Carol fitting right in!

Wednesday morning we oriented Robyn with a tour of the sites of Broome. Of course she got to try all our morning coffee spots! First one was the Million Stars Café at the Hovercraft Base, because if Robyn had an interest in a sunset tour, we needed to get her booked in early, as they only operate on a certain number of days a month, as the tides allow, which was here and now! We were in luck, as there were only a couple of spots left on Sunday's trip. We had planned Robyn's trip around dates that would allow her to see the best of the best that Broome has to offer!! It was going to be a pretty full couple of weeks!! Any down time would be spent lounging around that beautiful pool of hers!!

Staircase to the Moon.

Crowds waiting for the Staircase.

The Staircase to the Moon is a unique Broome experience, which only occurs a number of times a year, and Friday night was one of those nights. The best place in Broome to see it is The Mangrove Hotel, so we got there early for ringside seat! It only occurs on a full moon, and a very low tide, when the sun has set in the west, and the full moon rises in the east, casting a golden glow across the exposed sands of Roebuck Bay, creating the image of a stairway from the earth to the moon. As the magical time nears, a didgeridoo started playing and there was an eerie silence all around the crowded hotel lawns. It really is an incredible sight, and Carolyn & I have been fortunate to witness it before, but this time at the Mangrove Hotel with the sounds of the didgeridoo playing, it was something else. After around 45 minutes, the moon has risen so high that there is too much light, and the show is over. With a huge crowd in attendance, we decided to go elsewhere to eat. We had been loving a little Thai restaurant called Som Thai, and decided to go there for dinner. The last time we went, the service was slow and the food  was not up to the usual standard, and this time it was worse. The service was appallingly slow, and the food was poor. We won't be going back! There are too many other good choices in town!!

At Broome Markets.

On Cable Beach.

Saturday we did the Broome Markets and lazed around the pool in the afternoon. We had dinner in, with Carolyn doing the honours, and after dinner we were off to the movies. The Sun Picture Theatre is a Broome must do. It is the oldest, continuously running outdoor theatre in the world. People arrive with blankets and pillows, as the evenings can get cool, and those deck chairs were not built with comfort in mind, and as the movie starts the occasional bat flies across the screen ,and the sound track struggles with a plane coming in to land, but it is a great experience. We saw the latest Bourne Movie which was full of action, and they still sell Choc Tops!!!

At The Mangrove Hotel.

At Gantheaume Point.

Sunday morning we headed down to The Zookeepers for brekkie to try the legendary pancakes with caramelised walnuts and mascarpone cream. They were good! We had a call from Moira & Geoff, who were on their way back from Darwin, and had decided to stop back in Broome for a few days. Our caravan park was booked out, but they got in down the road at the Cable Beach Caravan Park, so we planned to get together Monday evening, for Happy Hour! The rest of the day for us was quiet, but for Robyn she was off for her Hovercraft Sunset experience. She had a ball, and recounted her adventures over dinner upon her return. It really is an excellent trip, and very unique. Not many days out, when you can say you stood in Dinosaur footprints, then wandered the sandy flats with sea turtles!!

Chilling out at Robyn's place.

More chilling out!

Monday, Robyn was off for the day for her fantastic Horizontal Waterfalls experience. She was picked up bright and early, 5.15am, and taken out to the airport for her incredible adventure, flying up to the falls, being raced through the falls by high speed boat, being fed and pampered, then flown back to One Arm Point for more sightseeing, and then the exciting 4WD trip back down the Dampier Peninsula and back to Broome. What a day it is!! While this was happening, Robyn had left us the keys to the Honeymoon Suite, and we were making the most of it!! We had decided to have our Happy Hour at Robyn's, and make the most of the facilities. What a lovely night it was, with friends old and new. It wasn't a late night, as Robyn had had a huge but exciting day!!

Moira Carol & Robyn with camels!

Sunset ride is the best!

Tuesday morning, Robyn and Carolyn met up with Pam, a midwife friend of Robyn's who now works at Broome Hospital, having moved here a few years ago. They had a lovely time, getting in some dog walking on the beach with Pam and her dog Lily, as well as breakfast at a new spot in town, that we hadn't found, called the Good Cartel. It is tucked away behind McDonalds, run by a whole bunch of young people who certainly haven't splurged on the décor! It was great and we all went back again. Tuesday was also camel ride day on Cable Beach. Robyn, Moira and Carolyn all wanted to experience this icon of Cable Beach. Me, I'm not into animal cruelty! Besides, they usually take one look at my bulk and run and hide!! The girls chose Red Sun Camels, there are three companies providing the ride!! Carolyn reckoned they were the nicest looking camels!! Now there's a contest!! Anyway, we got them to the beach on time, and off they went, Carolyn & Moira on one camel and Robyn all alone on another who was getting on a bit in years, and only allowed to carry one little person!! Of course we chose the sunset ride, so away they plodded into the sunset to a cacophony of shutter clicks!! Geoff and I cracked a couple of stubbies, settled in on the tailgate, and waited for their return. Needless to say we have lots of photos!! The girls had a ball!!

Happy Hour with Robyn, Geoff & Moira.

Lunch at Matso's.

The next few days were devoted to things culinary. A breakfast at The Aarli, where the Panko Crumbed eggs are famous and just delicious. A lunch at Matso's Brewery, which these days isn't really a brewery anymore, just a great place to eat and knock back some of their outstanding beverages. It is all brewed down in Perth these days, such is the demand, and most of it is pretty good. Some of it is a bit gimmicky, with Mango Beer, Chile Beer and Lychee Beer, which are simply awful, but the true ales, The Ginger Beer and the Mango Cider are all excellent. My favourite is the Pearler's Pale Ale, and the Ginger Beer is fantastic. Ginger Beer Spiders!! To die for!! I can still taste those Ginger Beer Spiders we had out on the Gibb River Road with Moira & Geoff!! God it was tough!! The food at Matso's is also pretty good, and whether you are sitting up on the veranda gazing out over the turquoise waters of Roebuck Bay, or settles under a shady Mango Tree in the sprawling gardens, it is a Broome experience not to be forgotten.

Dinner at Café dÁmour.

Café dÁmour Pizza. Ymmo!!

For Moira and Geoff's last night, we were back at Café d'Amour, which is so good, and Robyn had to experience its uniqueness. So we called up Ragu, the maxi taxi guy, and off we went. Moira and Geoff's friend Jenny, joined us for a lovely night. The margarita's got flowing and the cold beers were good and as usual, the food was excellent. Those wood fired pizzas are excellent, and my grilled sardines were right up there. The night flew by too quickly, and with Ragu on call, we were whisked back to our respective destinations, in no time, with Ragu's big smile telling us to call him any time!! We said our farewell's to Moira & Geoff, until our paths cross again, and wished them safe travels as they head back to Perth.

On Cable Beach.

Cable Beach Sunset.

There was lots of time for relaxing around Robyn's pool, and visiting Cable Beach with the car and the shade awning. It has to be the best possible way to go to the beach!! There was shopping to do and markets to revisit. On the Monday before Robyn departed for home, we had a really unique experience. It rained!! And I mean rained!!! It came down in torrents, flooding the streets and turning the streets to rivers. The red earth became red mud, and as quick as it came it was gone, leaving a refreshed landscape and lots of huge puddles!! It was the heaviest August rain on record, and the first August rain for 30 years!!

The Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park.

Hello!!!

Sunday we visited the Crocodile Farm. In our previous visits to Broome we have never visited this place, believing we have seen enough crocodiles!! But it gave us a chance to let Robyn see first hand, these nasty prehistoric beasts. The park was set up by famed Aussie adventurer turned conservationist, Malcolm Douglas, and following his death a few years back it was sold to the current owners who run it as a commercial crocodile farm. The tourist side helps with the cash flow!! We were there for the croc feeding show which happens at 3.00pm every day. Our guide was a big guy, full of passion for the job he does. He just loves it, and it showed. We all even got to hold a not too happy little guy! The first thing you notice at a crocodile farm, is just how many of them there are all in together. In the wild, they are very territorial, with one male having a number of females in his section of the river or swamp. But in a farm, they are kept together from birth, so can cohabit, but that isn't to say they don't fight!!

Our size of crocodile.

Not happy!!

In addition to the farm operations, the park is home to a number of nasty crocodiles that have been trapped because of a particular problem, usually at an Aboriginal community, or rural property. A large crocodile has no problem bringing down a fully grown steer or horse or human. The show that was put on, leaves you in no doubt just how fast and ferocious these predators are. At one point, the guide threw a huge inflated rubber buoy into a murky pool that appeared empty. No sooner had that buoy hit the water, and the water erupted, and I mean erupted, as the buoy was snatched and rolled and dragged under the water. The speed & power of a 4 metre, 600kg crocodile, stunned us all!! It was an excellent afternoon, and the show was worth every cent!

Finches.

Gouldian Finch, now threatened!

Tuesday, under partly cloudy skies we headed out to 12 Mile to visit the Mango Place and take Robyn to the Bird Park. We love the Bird Park, with its wonderful array of colourful parrots and native birds. We followed the paths passed the talkative cockatoos and galahs. The place was deserted, so we had all the time in the world to wander. Parrots sound like the happiest creatures on earth with the constant chatter, the raunchy squawking, and all that talking!! It must be a lovely place to work.

Willie Creek Pearl Farm.

I'll get my own!!

Next day was Robyn's last day, and we were taking her out to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm, for her to do the tour. It is an excellent insight into the industry that made Broome famous. First we checked that the road was open, as the downpour had closed most of the dirt roads in the region. Cape Leveque Road was still closed, but  past the Willie Creek turnoff. The road was open to 4WD only, and when we reached the farm turnoff, we found out why. The normal access road was still flooded, but the emergency sandy track was open. It was just two wheel tracks, and when you met someone coming the other way, it was a game of bluff to see who was going bush to let the other pass! Thankfully we didn't meet too many cars. We got Robyn to her tour on time, and she enjoyed it immensely, learning about the pearl industry from go to woe, including a boat ride out onto Willie Creek to see the actual process at work. While all this was happening, Carolyn & I enjoyed a lovely lazy lunch on the deck, overlooking the creek. We all browsed the shop, and ogled at the strings of pearls with price tags like phone numbers! Robyn got to try on one string worth thousands, but politely declined to buy this time!!

Saving Willie Creek.

So much pearling history.

On the way back down the track, we encountered the Willie Creek mini bus. The very polite bus driver took the bus into the bush to let us pass, which proved a major mistake!! He waved us past, but as I looked in the rear view mirror all I could see was sand flying and the bus was going nowhere!! So, we backed up, and found him red faced and very thankful that we had our snatch strap on board. We hooked him up, and pulled him out in no time!! A guy in a hired Toyota Rav4 pulled up and videoed the whole operation! Said he owned the Toyota Dealership at Mandurah and was going to put the footage on his website. A Toyota Landcruiser pulling a Toyota Bus out of the sand Pit!!! When we got back on the main road, I decided to head out a little further to Barred Creek and Quandong, which is a popular fishing and camping spots. In fact, many caravanners camp out at Quandong for lengthy stays. We found it, albeit down a wet and partly submerged road, which was mostly just a two wheel track. There were a few campers out there, but it is for off road stuff only. Some lovely scenery though, up and down the coast.

At The Pearl Luggers Centre.

The Little red &

black crabs.

Last day for Robyn started with a sad farewell to that sensational room at The Pearle, followed by a long lazy brekkie at The Aarli. We wandered around the town one last time, calling in at the Pearl Lugger's Centre, and a number of the galleries and up market pearl stores, that adorn Dampier Terrace. We walked to the end of Streeters Jetty, which was the main jetty serving the pearling fleet back in the heyday. Hard to imaging that the overgrown mangrove area along the jetty was once cleared sandy beach, home to 100 or more pearling luggers. On the sand under the jetty were hundreds of the brightest red and black little crabs! It was the worst camouflage job I've ever seen!! We had Robyn out to the airport on time for our farewell, and reflected on how fast the time had gone, and on how much we had fitted into her two week holiday. We know, that we have converted another person to the magic that is Broome