Karajini National Park.

Karijini National Park, is the second largest National Park in WA and has quite a reputation. Covering more than 627,000 hectares, it has been on our must see list since we left home, and we have read much, and heard even more, from fellow travellers, so our expectations were high. Everything we read and heard is true. It is an unbelievably spectacular, rugged and beautiful place, full of surprises. The rugged Hamersley Ranges are mountains and escarpments that rise out of flat valleys. The plateaus are dissected by breathtaking gorges containing stony, tree lined water courses, and some remarkable pools and waterholes. All of this, in some of the most ancient geology on the planet, dating back 2,500 million years.  

Hamersley Gorge.

Exploring Hamersley Gorge.

Our first day trip was out to the most westerly part of the Hamersley Range, and the Hamersley Gorge. Armed with a picnic of roast beef sandwiches, courtesy of a beautiful piece of "Mobile Butcher" beef we cooked last night on the Weber Q, and plenty of water, we headed out. The first 26 kilometres was on a lovely bitumen road, followed by another 50kms of red gravel. The choking red dust is unbelievable. It gets into everything. The gravel road is pretty good,

Contrasting colours of the gorge.

Unbelievable rock formations.

but we pass a couple of people who have a puncture. We slow to offer help, but they wave us on. The road suddenly returns to bitumen winds down to the edge of the gorge. We park the car in the new paved car park and walk a short distance to gaze down into the gorge. It is just wow! We descend the steep steps into the gorge, scramble over the rocks, and everywhere we look it is just beautiful. Clear cold water, too cold to swim, unbelievable colours in the rocks, and some of the most twisted

Peace and tranquility.

Incredible colours.

and turned rock formations imaginable, all studded with a few of the white trunked Snappy Gums, that manage to survive this hostile landscape. Initially we are the only two people in the gorge, and the quietness and the peace is almost surreal, as we take it all in. As we clamber over the rocks, we find more pools, linked by small waterfalls that are only a trickle.There are lots of small fish in the pools, and little Pilbara banded dragons scurry among

"Wilson!"

Small waterfalls.

the rocks, disturbed from their sun baking. More people arrived to shatter our peace, so we climbed back up the 130 or so steps, to enjoy our picnic. We grabbed the only picnic table at the top of the gorge, and sat back enjoying our lunch and the fantastic views of the gorge and the spinifex covered hills. We have come to like the prickly old balls of spinifex. They are all in flower and have long strands poking out of the top. We have dubbed them "Wilson"!  We packed up and headed back to camp thinking what a start to our exploration of Karijini NP. That evening, back at Tom Price, we had another fun happy hour comparing notes with new friends Laurel and Adrian.

At Oxer Lookout.

One of the gorges at Oxer Lookout.

Next day we headed out to the centre of the park. Armed with another picnic lunch and loads of water, our first stop was Weano Gorge. Here is one of the most famous lookouts in the park. At Oxer Lookout, there are viewing platforms suspended out over the deep rugged gorges. At this point, five separate gorges meet. Incredibly deep and lined with rugged red cliffs, they are narrow and steep. Just breathtaking to behold. We bumped into Laurel & Adrian, and as fate would have it,

Laurel & Adrian.

In memory of a brave volunteer.

continued to bump into them at every spot we stopped all day! Beside the lookout is a Celtic Cross, a memorial to a young SES volunteer, who lost his life in 2005, trying to save an idiot who had gone into the gorge after rain, an absolute no no. Written around the cross is a moving tribute to the young volunteer. From the lookout we headed around to Weano Gorge. Before heading into the gorge, we decided to have our lunch rather than carry it into the gorge.

Nature finds a way!

Walking along Weano Gorge.

The Weano Gorge walk, is a 2.5 kilometre walk, that entailed a steep descent to the floor of the gorge, followed by a walk and scramble, along an up and down trail, that follows the creek. It was a great walk as we criss crossed the creek,several times, discovering tranquil pools, cool clumps of shady gums and slowly running water courses. At the end of the gorge, was the Handrail Pool, a deep pool popular for swimming, but freezing cold at this time of the year. We didn't go all the way around to the pool, as we would have had to

Just gorgeous!

Beautiful Knox Gorge.

wade through knee deep freezing water and the prospect of wet shoes and socks didn't appeal! We loved the walk, and slowly made the climb back to the top. Back in the car we were next on our way to Joffre and Knox Gorges. Again we bumped into Laurel & Adrian. We weren't sure who was stalking who! At these spots it was just wonderful suspended lookouts gazing out into the gorges. The waterfall at Joffre was only a trickle, with a huge pool at the base. Some adventurous youngsters were scrambling down the steep rock face to the pool, but that was not for us! We had enjoyed another unbelievable day, and there was no doubting we would sleep well tonight!

Free camping at Dales Campground.

Kalamina Gorge.

Laurel & Adrian headed off on their journey to the coast. We now have a welcome mat at Innisfail in Far North Qld, whenever we head that way! We also decided to pack up and leave the galahs to their own devices, and head off from Tom Price, to free camp out at Dales Campground within the Karijini NP. I expected to see a flock of galahs in the rear view mirror! This camp ground is run by the Parks & Wildlife Service, and hosted by volunteers who are given free accommodation in return for booking people into the campground. This would afford us a much easier access to the western end of the National Park. We are well set up for free camping, and got settled into a

Walking Kalamina Gorge.

Colourful dragon fly.

large site in Warlu Loop, one of the six separate loops, accommodating campers. Some allow generators, some do not. As we only need the generator when the sun doesn't shine and our solar panels don't work, we opted for generator free. Free camping is a great experience, which we really enjoy. It is basic, but so in tune with all nature has to offer. Our time is only limited by the amount of food and water we can carry. No long hot showers, just a quick top and tail. At this end of the park are some of the most wonderful sights the park has to offer. First stop is Kalamina Gorge, a day trip that took us down steep steps into the gorge, and then a wonderful walk along the gorge floor, following the stream that tumbles and falls over countless rock steps, joined by tranquil pools. It is absolutely beautiful. Hovering above the pools are hundreds of dragon flies and damsel flies, of all sizes and colours. We spent a lovely couple of hours just wandering along the floor of the gorge, then headed back to camp, weary from another fantastic day.

Fortescue Falls.

Giant Fig Trees.

They say you should save the best until last! Our final two days at Karijini, saw us exploring the magic of Dales Gorge. First stop was Fortescue Falls. A steep walk down into the gorge, reveals a beautiful waterfall, cascading into a large pool. We were surprised at the volume of water. It was simply beautiful. As we continued the steep descent, we could hear the screams of those adventurous folk who had decided to brave the water for a swim! When we finally

Tranquil Fern Pool.

Beautiful Maiden Hair Fern.

made it to the floor of the gorge, we followed the signs to Fern Pool, which is another pool, above the falls. It is well named, as we walk through almost a rainforest to reach the pool. There are huge fig trees clinging to the rocks, and the walls of the gorge are covered in ferns. It is all cool under the canopy of the enormous figs. Fern Pool is a very sacred site for the local Aborigines, and signs ask us to respect the peace and tranquility of the pool. Not hard to do. There is a wooden platform with

Great spot for a picnic.

Walking Dales Gorge.

ladder to allow swimmers a graceful entry into the water. No jumping off the waterfall! There were a couple of German backpackers braving the cold water. We wandered back to Fortescue Falls, and scrambled down the rock ledges beside the pool, to start our 3 hour walk along Dales Gorge. Back at the falls, the peace had been shattered by three obnoxiously loud Frauleins from Munchen who were heralding entering the cold water, with a barrage of yelling &

Don't jump!

Along Dales Gorge.

screaming. Unfortunately their sum total of English was F.....K! I was hoping Warlu the serpent would rise from the depths of the pool, but no such luck! We headed off down the gorge, and I just can't think of enough superlatives to describe the sights, as we crossed the stream countless times on stepping stones. It was a truly magical walk. We stopped for lunch on a huge flat rock, beside a small waterfall. Just the two of us surrounded by the sounds of the rushing water. I can't ever remember a more serene picnic spot. At he end of Dales Gorge is another wonderful surprise. We headed along 

Circular Pool.

Circular Pool.

an additional path, around to Circular Pool. It was a tough walk clambering over large rock shelves, but the amazing pool at the end of the walk was worth it. We found another three couples just sitting around taking in the atmosphere of this huge circular amphitheatre, lined with ferns. The sun hardly ever penetrates this spring fed pool. One brave guy decided to have a swim. He lasted 30 seconds, then did the best JC impression I've seen in a long time, as he strode across the surface of the water, having turned blue!! The walk ended with a very steep climb up to the Circular Pool Lookout, then a lovely walk along the rim of the gorge back to Fortescue Falls carpark. An unforgettable day again.

At Albert Tognolini Rest Area.

On the edge of the escarpment.

There is no doubt that our stay in and around Karijini has exceeded all our expectations. This is without doubt one of the most beautiful National Parks we have visited. We are sad to leave its natural wonders. It is a remote destination, but if you have the time, come visit. You won't be disappointed. Our last day was spent just lazing around, taking in the excellent Visitor Centre, and a couple of other lookouts. At the Visitor Centre, we learned with interest, that the infamous Wittenoon Asbestos Mine, was situated along the northern boundary of the park. It was owned by Lang Hancock, the iron ore baron. When the evil effects of asbestos were discovered, the mine was closed and the area cleaned. In fact it was so well cleaned up that the entire town of Wittenoon has disappeared, removed from the register of WA town as if it never existed at all! They just don't want people to go there. We left the park next day, and decided that we had enjoyed our free camping so

Wildflowers starting to bloom.

Our view into the gorge.

much, that we would take in another free camp just outside the park. We had read about this place called the Albert Tognolini Rest Area. Named after a big wig in the Roads Dept. of WA, it is regularly talked about as being a great free camp. We arrived to find a bitumen road leading high up onto an escarpment, with a series of dirt tracks leading off to dozens of campsites. Being early, we were able to take up a prime position on the edge of the escarpment, looking down into the gorge. It was unbelievable. So quiet and peaceful, that we

Wildflowers.

Beautiful Pilbara sunset.

stayed three nights! The sunsets over the Hamersley Ranges were incredible. Every night at Happy Hour, we sat and watched the sunset that changed the landscape to the most wonderful hues of red and orange and purple. We just lounged around reading our books in the shade of our little trees. After dinner we would come outside and lay back in our recliner chairs, and just look up into that night sky full of stars. With no moon, the stars shone like nothing we could remember. The Milky Way was clear and bright. On Sunday afternoon I made a mercy dash to the nearby

Auski Roadhouse Motel.

Dust covered Auski Roadhouse.

Auski Roadhouse, as Carolyn needed her Sunday Paper and an ice cream, a caramel Magnum to be precise! The look on the girls face when I asked about a Sunday paper was priceless! You'd have thought I'd asked for the Holy Grail. Thankfully the Magnums were in plentiful supply! I have never seen dust like I saw at Auski Roadhouse! All the giant roadtrains have turned the dust into the finest powder about 10 centimetres thick. Every step generates a cloud of dust. When a truck drives in, even slowly, it is a total blackout, or actually a "red out". They've even opened a Motel! Everything is coated in red dust. Why on earth would anyone stay here? Back at camp, with Magnum in hand, we reflected on three wonderful days in the outback. All that peace and quiet. Not a worry in the world.

Life is good!! But now, it's time for a long hot shower back in civilisation!!

Tom Price.

Morning tea at Panawonica.

Stretching the legs on the way
to Paraburdoo.

We were on the road bright and early, headed for an overnight stop at Paraburdoo. Our morning tea break was at a nice roadside stop constructed by Rio Tinto, near one of their mines around Panawonica. What a great name for a town, Panawonica! I love these roadside stops the mining companies build. They have lots of wonderful signage and story boards telling of the history of the land and its special significance to the local indigenous people, and how they work with the local people to preserve the cultural significance of the land. Yeah right! Let's turn that sacred mountain into a hole in the ground!! How do I get a job in the "Make me Feel Good Dept"!! For lunch we stopped at Nanutarra Roadhouse for fuel, for us and the car! The roadhouses here in the north west must all be in competition as to who can make the best sausage rolls. Nanutarra gets our vote! They must have someone dedicated to making these delicious little parcels. Almost everyone who stops for fuel buys one or more!

We've been looking forward to this!

Here we go.

From Nanutarra, we head inland towards Paraburdoo. The landscape is rolling hills and plains of spinifex with red rock outcrops. It is rugged and oh so big. Only the occasional road train coming or going to one of the mine sites along the way. We stopped at a roadside rest area to stretch the legs and take in wonderful scenery. After a long day of driving we finally pull into Paraburdoo. There is not much to do in Paraburdoo!! There is a regional airport serving the

Temporary Miner accommodation.

At Paraburdoo Caravan Park.

needs of the Fly In Fly Out (FIFO) miners, and rows of mining accommodation. There is a small supermarket. For food there is the roadhouse, or visitors can use the miner's mess hall at $25.00 per person for the buffet. Talk about a mining town. The sign on the caravan park gate says report to the Rio Tinto Office in town to register, so off we go. The caravan park is cheap at $25.00 per night. It has brand new amenities and the tariff includes

Travelling the Warlu Way.

Paraburdoo's only tourist attraction!

free use of the washing machines and dryers. The place is spotless, and hardly a tree in sight. The place is deserted. The rows of temporary miner's accommodation lie empty, though we are told they will be full in a few weeks. Our neighbour, who is stranded here waiting for a new alternator for his car, laments how little there is to do, except sit and bake in the sun! We are happy to be only overnighting! The route we are travelling is called the Warlu Way, named after the Aboriginal Dreamtime serpent, who supposedly carved all the ranges and gorges as he made his way inland from the sea. It snakes its way through the Pilbara.

Welcome to Tom Price.

Mt. Nameless.

Next morning we on the road early for the short drive into Tom Price, one of the original Pilbara iron ore mining towns. Yes, there was a real Tom Price. He was a Yank, working for the giant US steel company, Kaiser Steel, in Australia in search of iron ore. He met with Lang Hancock and together they worked to allow the mining and export of the ore. You, like us, may not have known, that there was an embargo on the export of iron ore after WW11, due to a shortage of steel. It took some time to get the embargo lifted. Poor old Tom was back in the US when it

Cheeky early morning visitor.

Carolyn feeds her flock.

was lifted, and died from a heart attack that same week! The town is surprisingly green with lots of trees. The caravan park, run by a lovely couple who are most helpful, is also pretty green, and nestled under the imposing Mt. Nameless! I later read with great humour, the reflections on the white man's names by an aboriginal elder. He reflected, "we already have names for all the mountains and rivers and gorges, but the white man never asks us the names. Then he calls a mountain Nameless when it has a name!!! What that mean?" The other striking 

On the Mine Tour.

The mobile butcher was in town.

thing about Tom Price is the huge flocks of galahs and corellas. They are everywhere, and so tame! The corellas are red from all the red dust! Carolyn soon had a flock of more than 30 galahs coming for a feed every day. We carry some native bird seed for just such occasions. One morning when Carolyn came out, one cheeky little bugger, was actually sitting on the step of the caravan! We would come home and find them all over the awning! We headed into town to find the supermarket. The weekend before had been the

Huge Trucks.

Tom Price Mine.

Nameless Festival, and some of the food trucks were still hanging around town, giving the locals a change to their diet. Also in town was the mobile butcher! This guy is amazing, driving a huge refrigerated semi trailer full of meat and game all over the Pilbara. He parks, lowers a ramp from the rear door, and you just walk into the cool room like a self service supermarket. He had every cut of meat possible, as well as some fruit and veggies. He has a roster on a fridge magnet, and only spends a day a month in any town, and boy was he doing a roaring trade. We bought a few things, and I have to say it is the best meat we've had in WA. Steak up north has been generally tough! The only guaranteed tender beef is a sausage! Hope we find him again before we leave.

Off on the mine tour.

Big blokes toys!

We called in at the Tourist Office and booked our Mine Tour. You can't come to Tom Price and not do the tour. It is only $25.00 each for seniors, which was everyone on the bus! The scope of the mining operations is mind numbing. Back in 1966 when things got under way, production was 5 million tons for the year. In 2013 production was 290 million tons. The mine is a yawning hole in the ground where a mountain once stood, and mountain after mountain is being reduced.

Ore is graded and washed.

Huge machines.

Changes in technology have seen the life of the mines increased from an estimated 40 years back in 1965, to more than 100 years forward from now. It is some of the world's highest grade iron ore. This town is all Rio Tinto, and the investments are in the tens of billions. The rail network alone encompasses 1600 kms and uses 173 locomotives and 10,500 wagons. Each 2.5 kilometre train is carrying around 120,000 tons of ore to the loaders

Even more iron ore.

So much iron ore.

at Dampier. Hundreds of huge trucks, diggers and shovels, plus crushers and miles and miles of conveyors moving the ore around. An amazing fact is that some of the loading equipment is controlled from a centralised control room in Perth!! Can you believe that!! It just goes on and on. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We drove around the mine site for more than an hour watching one more jaw dropping thing after another. That afternoon, we

Town from Mt. Nameless.

The mine from Mt. Nameless.

drove up the rough old 4WD track to the top of Mt. Nameless. Quite a drive on a very rough and steep track, but the views were worth it. We got another perspective on the size of the mine, and even heard the dull thud and saw the resultant cloud of dust from one of the daily explosions. Back at camp, we met up with Laurel and Adrian, whom we had met on the tour. They are a couple of characters from near Innisfail in Queensland. She is a real wag, and he is as dry as a box of weetbix. We had a long and very funny happy hour with new friends.

We stayed in Tom Price for 6 days and started our explorations of the western side of Karajini National Park. But that my friends, is a whole new story!