Kakadu National Park.

Entrance to the Park.

It is estimated that the Aboriginal people have continuously lived in this land for 50,000 years. The world's oldest civilisation, and they still protect these sacred lands and those thousands of years of culture, today. It is World Heritage listed, for all of the unique and amazing things that are here, and it is a scenically magical land, that changes dramatically with the seasons, from torrential, flooding rains of the wet season, to the extreme dry heat and bush fires of the dry season. We are here in the dry season, and it is hot, and there are fires and it is still beautiful. Some of our experiences here have been unforgettable, and will last in our hearts and minds forever.

Roughing it at Kakadu.

We drove up from Katherine, turning off the Stuart Hwy at Pine Creek onto the Kakadu Hwy and headed for the Mary River Roadhouse on the edge of the park, to buy our Kakadu Park Entry Permits for $25.00 each. From there it was on to Gagadju Cooinda Lodge, where our caravan park is situated. We were directed to a beautiful spot, on green grassy lawn, at an oasis in the park. The lodge covers a huge area, and has all kinds of accommodation from deluxe bungalows to unpowered camp sites. It has a bar and restaurant, 3 swimming pools and lovely landscaped grounds. The perfect place to return to from a day of adventure and exploring. 

Swimming at Marguk.

Gunlom Falls and pool. 

The weather is hot and dry. So we decide we will visit two of the famous waterfalls and take a dip in the refreshing plunge pool at their base. First stop is Maguk ( Mar-Gook). It is a 12 km dirt road in and a solid 2km, return walk to the waterfall from the carpark. It is so worth it! The pool will stay with us as the most beautiful we visited. Crystal clear water, full of fish, and as it is one of the lesser known spots, not too many visitors. It is a small waterfall, but is actually still flowing, keeping the water fresh and clean.

Really big termite downs in Kakadu!

From Maguk we headed back up the road to Gunlom (Goon-

lom) Falls. It is some 37 kms on a dirt road, that was very rough the last 15 or so kilometres. It is one of the famous falls, but it is almost dry, but the huge pool is refreshing and cool. It is also full of various types of fish, and we swim across the pool to the base of the falls, and stare up at the sheer cliffs that have just a trickle of water splashing down. Gunlom, has a good campground for all sizes of vans, but it would rattle the crap out of your caravan to get there! The pool is right at the carpark and campground, so is very accessible. I should point out that there are crocodile traps at each location we've swum, but these are managed pools, checked by the rangers and cleared as safe to swim.

Sunrise at Yellow Water Billabong.

Our guide, Nathaniel,
plays didgeridoo.

Next day we spoiled ourselves and got up early to go on the world famous Yellow Water Cruise, that departs from right next to our caravan park. We chose the sunrise cruise, as the wildlife is most active. We were at the boat before dawn, and it was quite eerie as there was fog on the water. As we moved out onto the water, the sun emerged and our guide started playing his didgeridoo and the whole atmosphere was all goose bumpy! Before we had even gone 50 metres, a 2-3 metre crocodile swam up beside us, just to let us know who owned the waterway! Our guide, Nathaniel, was a real bird lover, and his enthusiasm was infectious, as he would shout "wow, did you see that Sacred Kingfisher" or whatever else we saw. There was no shortage of bird life to see, and lots of crocodiles. The four people in front of

White breasted Eagle.

us, we bird watchers from the USA, all decked out with

Another water bird!

binoculars and big lens cameras. They were like sailors in a a brothel, not knowing which way to look!! I don't know every bird we saw, but the list included 3 types of Kingfisher, Storks, Herons, 3 kinds of Ibis, Whistling Kites, Cormorants, White Breasted Eagles, Jabiru, Brolgas, countless kinds of ducks, geese and water fowl, dozens of little finches and orioles and other small birds. It was an unbelievable experience, that went all too fast. There were three boats that left at the same time, but we never saw each other again, so big is this wetland area. We all met up for a buffet breakfast back at the resort.

Rock Art at Nourlangie.

Saltwater Crocodile.

Later that day we took ourselves out to the Nourlangie area, to take a look at some of the Rock Art, that dates back over 10,000 years. It is an impressive sandstone escarpment, that has provided shelter for the Aboriginals, from the wet season, for thousands of years. It is interesting to hear the culture and learn about the meaning of the rock art from the local people. Up here, culture is everything to the local people. They do not want it to die. We climbed to the lookout nearby, and just looked out over the vast plains, surrounded by the red of the escarpment. You can see the smoke from the bushfires that help regenerate the vegetation. You can see the hundreds of

Jabiru.

Whistling Kites circling above the fire looking for prey flushed

Magpie Geese.

out by the fire. There are no fire engines. The fires just start and then eventually go out. From here we stopped at Anbangbang Billabong, and what a beautiful place it turned out to be. We did the 1.5km walk around the billabong and were blown away by the wonderful bird life. By now, it was heading towards dusk, so the birds were a very active and talkative lot! We even came across a number of very timid kangaroos that had come down to the billabong to drink. It was a really lovely setting that we left reluctantly.

Crossing Jim Jim River.

On the road to Jim Jim Falls.

Next day we were up bright and early as we had a full day heading out to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls. It is only 50kms, but is 4WD ONLY, and takes about 2 hours each way. What a day it was! The drive was awesome. We've never been on a track like this before! Soft sand, creek crossings, bumps and jumps, it had it all. There was even a deep water river crossing at Jim Jim River! I drove out and Carolyn drove back, we had an absolute ball. Firstly, we headed out

Twin Falls & Pool.

to Twin Falls. From the carpark it is a short walk to the boat,

Together at Twin Falls.

that takes you up the gorge towards the falls, where they drop you off, and you make your way across floating pontoons and over the rocks of the river bed, until you reach the beautiful pool and the falls. Unfortunately, the falls are just a trickle,and this pool is unsafe to swim in, due to regular visits by saltwater crocodiles, via a small stream. But nonetheless, it is a beautiful sight, though very teasing in the 38 degree heat! Bloody crocodiles!!

Jim Jim Falls & Pool.

Along the way to Jim Jim Falls.

A quick picnic lunch and a drink, then back down the track and across the river to Jim Jim Falls, where we know we can have a swim. What we didn't know, was how difficult the walk to the falls was! It was 2km return, but it was not a track, it was a scramble across boulders alongside and in the river bed. A Mountain goat would have been challenged! But still, we made it and I staggered across the hot sand and fell into the water, like the guy in the movies who has crossed the desert and found water! A huge

Cold shower but no swim
at Twin Falls.

Over the rocks to Jim Jim Falls.

plume of steam leaped into the sky, and as I rolled onto my back and looked skywards, I couldn't believe how high and rugged were the cliffs. I actually think it was worth the walk! We were in a huge amphitheatre, surrounded by cliffs, millions of years old and hundreds of feet tall, and you could only wonder at the sound of millions of litres of water crashing over that waterfall in the wet season. We slowly made our way back to the carpark. We didn't want to leave the cool water, to clamber over all those rocks again, but we had to. We made it back , John's knees screaming at him, and then had one of those huge decisions to make, will I have that cold beer before or after I throw my body into the pool!

Cahill's Crossing to Arnhem Land.

Barramundi Fishing
at Cahill's Crossing.

We packed up and made the short move to Jabiru, the only town in Kakadu. We were booked into Kakadu Lodge, which turned out to be another oasis in the wilderness. Beautiful green lawns and a lovely pool and bar area. We found our site, which is huge, and settled in. Town is small with basic shopping. Jabiru is home to the Ranger Uranium mine, so there is a small mining town feel. It is a nicely kept town area, well watered with a man made lake, and even has a golf course with grass greens! We have moved here due to its closer proximity to Ubirr (Oo-beer), another of the must see areas of Kakadu. One thing we had heard about was Cahill's Crossing on the East Alligator River. It is a

The rain forest walk near Ubirr.

famous barramundi fishing spot, and there are boat ramps both upstream and downstream of the crossing. The crossing is also a popular spot, not just for fishermen! As the tide comes in and approaches high tide, the water starts rushing back over the crossing trapping fish in the pools. The crocodiles come in numbers, we had about 12 on our day, and sit and wait and ride the current in search of fish. It is just amazing to watch. We only saw one successful chomp! Quite a crowd gathered to watch the drama unfold, on both sides of the river. We also took a lovely walk along the East Alligator River through a dry rain forest. It must have been ten degrees cooler under the canopy of trees.
Ironically, whilst we were watching the crocodiles a real drama was unfolding at nearby South Alligator. Some idiot had ignored the signs and the rangers advice, and gone for a swim. They still haven't found a trace. All I can say is, probably tasted like chicken!!

Looking out across the Wetlands.

Us at Ubirr.

The other must do things at Ubirr, are the rock art sites, and a climb to the top of the escarpment at sunset, to gaze out across the vast plains. A truly memorable and wonderful sight, as you gaze out over hundreds of square kilometres of pristine wetlands, with the sun slowly setting in the west. I loved a conversation between a young German tourist and one of the Rangers. He was saying how he couldn't believe how many mosquitoes there were. The ranger was politely telling him it was a wetland, which the German guy said he understood, but they are even in the campground! The Ranger said he'd go and see if the "No Mosquitoes Allowed Sign" was still in place!!

Sunset at Ubirr.

After sunset, headed back to the nearby Cahill's Crossing, where we had seen a small Thai restaurant at the Border Store. We enjoyed a delightful freshly cooked Thai meal, under the stars lathered in Aeroguard! We got chatting to the owner, and were fascinated how he told of completely shutting down the store from end of October until April, as the area got cut off in the Wet Season. Said it took about 4 to 6 weeks to get the store up and running again! 

You can't wipe off the smiles!!!!

We have really loved our time in Kakadu. We didn't do every walk or see every sight, but we did all the iconic ones and a whole lot more. We have walked our little feet into the ground, and I for one will be happy not to be crawling over boulders for a few days!

It is a truly wonderful place, and you just can't get the smiles off our happy faces! We will be back. We have to see it all when it's wet!

Darwin here we come!!! We want to see the sea again, and Carolyn needs a shopping mall!!! I just can't get the city out of that girl!!

Mataranka to Katherine

Beside the thermal spring
pool at Mataranka

How different our life has become. We are in a most beautiful part of Australia, harsh but full of surprises. We have spent a relaxing time at both Mataranka and Katherine, and it has given us some time to reflect on how different our life has become, away from the stress and bustle of working, and city life. We are two of a lucky few, travelling this enormous country, sharing in its amazing rich history, and the countless natural wonders. And, would you believe, there is still almost half the continent to see!

The drive up to Mataranka from Daly Waters is only a couple of hours, so we leave late and stop in at Larrimah for morning tea. Carolyn spotted a sign for a place called Fran's, advertising great coffee and home made goodies. We pulled up out the front of an old shack, surrounded by the oddest collection of outdoor furniture and shade structures. We found Fran in the kitchen and were met with "G'Day Darlin, sit yourself anywhere, I'll be with yous in a minute, I've got scones with cream and jam, and beautiful apple and mango pie, and one slice of my fantastic apple and blackberry pie!"

Relaxing at Fran's Place.

We found a seat, and Fran took our order of Scones for

Delicious!!

Carolyn and the last slice of apple & blackberry pie for John. Meanwhile new customers arrived, and Fran shouted "Be with ya in a second, sit with them other folks over there, they won't bite ya! Yous all might learn something!" So we were soon sitting with  two other couples, learning something! There was a shout from the kitchen "OK pies up,come and get it. I ain't got time to serve ya." So up we got and collected our big serve of pie and cream and a scone that came with jam and cream plus an extra fruit tart! It was delicious. One of those fantastic "bush" experiences. The classic line  from Fran came when someone asked for a weak coffee, and Fran replied "don't worry luv, it's nice whichever way it comes!"

Mataranka is set in the Elsey National Park. Many of you will be familiar with the classic Australian novel, "We of the Never Never", which was written in the early 1900's and made into a movie in 1982. It is an autobiography written by Jeannie Gunn who accompanied her husband to Elsey Station where he was to become the station manager. The story tells of her struggles as the first white woman in a hostile land. So we are in the true Never Never Land, and the replica of the Homestead, built for the movie, is here at the Mataranka Homestead Resort & Campground.

Our neighbours Shirley & Bob.

The campgrounds are dry and dusty, and we drive around and around, trying to find a site that will give us shade, and of course allow us a satellite signal through the trees. We have our soon to be neighbours, in fits, as we try a dozen or more positions on two different sites, before we get it right! Our neighbours are Shirley and Bob, farmers from Moruya on the NSW south coast, and within a few hours it is as if we have known them all our life! We spend hours day and night talking about life, family and travels. They have been to this area many times, having camped and caravanned for many years, so I am like a sponge, collecting information, and making notes on things to see and do, and caravan and campgrounds to stay at. This kind of information from kindred spirits is worth a million brochures. Our Happy Hour went for hours every night, and Carolyn & Shirley were off walking or plunging into the springs, several times a day. I've never seen Carolyn spend so much time in the water!!

Thermal Pool at Mataranka.

Carolyn & Shirley take
an early morning dip

The campgrounds are just a short walk from the thermal springs they are famous for today. They are naturally occurring, and the main pool has been made user friendly, to save both the site and the users, from damage. The water runs at some incredible volume per minute, and is crystal clear. The water temperature is around 32 to 34 degrees celcius, and given that the air temperature varies from around 12 degrees at night to 35 degrees during the day, it can be both a warming start to the day, and a cooling afternoon dip! Carolyn and Shirley are early risers, and often first to the pool in the morning. Bob and I are much more respectful of the night, and join in at a more respectable hour. One thing for sure, there are a lot of swims for all.

Apostle birds.

Can I have some too??

The campground is full of wild life. The chirpy little Apostle birds chasing scraps and water, several peacocks, and some very friendly little grey kangaroos. With Carolyn's constant supply of fruit and veggie scraps, we are usually surrounded by an expectant throng! Each night up at the main building which is a pub, restaurant and general store, there is entertainment. All of us went up for the concert, which was good. They lit the campfire, and it was a pleasant evening except for the loud, tipsy group in the middle. After a few complaints, and a bit of push and shove from people old enough to know better, peace was restored, and the show went on!

Driving in Elsey National Park.

Termite mounds everywhere.

We drove out around the area and through the Elsey National Park. It is situated on the Little Roper River, and as we are now well and truly in crocodile country, you take a little extra care when standing by the river bank! There are some lovely spots along the river. Fishing is popular, however there was a very late and dry "wet season", so the rivers are very low, and fishing difficult. The town of Mataranka itself, is small with a large aboriginal population. There are lots of "Never Never Land" things in the park, and a short drive out of town are the other two caravan parks, which access the other thermal spring known as Bitter

Bitter Springs thermal pool.

Springs. We did the short walk to the main

Dressing up the termite mounds.

swimming hole, and immediately regretted not bringing our swimming gear. What a beautiful spot. It is much more "natural" than at Mataranka, so next time we may choose to stay at the nearby caravan park instead. The other natural phenomenon  of this area, and in fact for much of outback Northern Territory and Queensland, are the giant termite mounds. You definitely want to build in brick or steel around these parts!  One of the funny sights we see, are the termite mounds all dressed up. Some of the creativity is unbelievable. You can't imagine what some people carry in their car!!

Our time at Mataranka came to a close. It was sad to say goodbye to our new friends Shirley and Bob. They are on their way home after several weeks in Western Australia, so are going the opposite direction to us, otherwise I'm sure we would have travelled together for a while. We'll keep in touch, and who knows where we might meet up. One thing's for certain, we have a free camp at their farm in Moruya whenever we want it.

Carolyn with Sabu Peter Sing.

Our next stop is only 100 kilometres up the road, at Katherine, the largest regional town and therefore business centre, of the central north of the Northern Territory. The population here is around 11,000, many of them Aboriginal. There is a real Woolworths supermarket, so we get to top up supplies again, though prices are still high, except fuel has come down to a manageable $1.64 per litre before discount! The surrounding area has a rich history in cattle, and at the entrance to the town is a magnificent bronze statue of the famous Aboriginal stockman with the unusual name of Sabu Peter Sing, and whilst it is a statue of one man, it is a tribute to the thousands of drovers and stockmen who have worked this country. These days, in addition to the cattle, there is a rich agricultural industry, so it is likely at some stage you have eaten melons and mango from this region. We are staying at the Shady Lane Top Tourist Park, which is a lovely tropical park full of mango, gum and palm trees. It has a great swimming pool, which will get a lot of use.

The entrance to the park.

On the edge of Katherine is the Nitmiluk National Park, home to the world famous Katherine Gorge. These days, the only way to see the gorge is to book a cruise or kayak trip through the traditional owners, the Jawoyn people. The popular cruises are booked out well ahead, so it is a priority to get our booking, which we can do at our Caravan Park Office. We have decided to do a Sunset Dinner Cruise, and have booked for Saturday night 4 days away. We take it easy and do a leisurely walk around town, and drive out to see the old lower bridge area, Knott's Crossing, and the Katherine Thermal Springs. Here, the weather is hot, 35 degrees every day. It is now several weeks since we've even seen a cloud, let alone rain!

On the way to the
Upper Pools at Edith Falls.

The waterfall and Upper Pools.

To whet our appetites for the gorge, we decide to take a drive to the other side of the National Park to see Edith Falls. It sounds like a nice place to have a swim in a cool waterhole at the base of the falls. When we arrive, we find it has a really nice campground with unpowered sites, and it is almost full. We read the map, and decide that before going to the main pool, we will take the steep 1.2 kilometre walk to the Upper Pools. What a great decision! We arrived at the pools soaked in sweat, and breathless at the beauty of the waterfall and deep green pool surrounded by red and black rocks. We found the best way into the water and all our heat exhaustion was washed

After our swim at the Upper Pools.

away as we swam around the huge pool with a handful of

The main pool at Edith Falls.

others who had made the trek. It was like we were in one of those travel brochure photographs, ticking off another Bucket List item, a swim in one of the Territories iconic waterfall pools. We just didn't want to leave. There were huge water monitor lizards sunning themselves on the rocks, and pink and red German, English and American tourists sunning themselves on the rocks as well! We finally dragged ourselves away, and headed down to the main pool for a picnic lunch. The main pool is enormous, and equally as clear and fresh. When you look around, there are a lot of people, but the area is so large it still looks secluded. We've just had another of those great days.

Is the Ghan coming??

So, is it safe??

On the drive back, we stopped at a railway crossing to take one of those crazy "standing on the railway tracks" photographs. I said to Carolyn, "isn't today the day the Ghan comes through?" I kid you not, within 3 minutes of the photo being snapped, the Ghan came roaring past!! You are probably wondering about crocodiles. Well, they do inhabit these areas, so you have to take notice of the signs. At the main pool at Edith Falls, you aren't allowed to swim at night from 7.00pm to 7.00am, as this is when the non man eating Freshwater Crocodiles feed! I guess it's hard to tell the difference at night! Personally, I wouldn't be hanging around to check his snout any bloody time of the day. I'd be doing my best JC impression, taking big strides!

Freshwater or Johnson Crocodile

Katherine Markets.

Saturday morning we headed off bright and early to the markets. It was only quite small, but beautifully set under the shade trees in the park. We topped up with beautiful fresh fruit and veggies from a local guy who just does the markets. The lettuce and other green veggies, as well as all the fresh herbs, were magnificent. They'll be put to good use by the caravan chef. We also did a walk through the shops of town. We love the "Emporiums" that exist in these big country towns. Katherine has a beauty, menswear, kitchenware, toy shop, sports store, homewares etc. The range is enormous!

Sheers cliffs at Jeddas Rock.

Katherine Gorge, the second gorge.

Late afternoon we headed off for our highlight in Katherine, a boat trip up the gorge. We are doing a two gorge tour, followed by dinner on another boat, on the water of the first gorge. Some things you dream about seeing all your life, and when you actually get there it is underwhelming. Katherine Gorge is all we expected and more. The sheer size and majesty of the gorges just blows you away, and when the guide explains that during the wet season the water level is 9 metres above where we sit in the boat, and the water flows at a rate equivalent to the volume of Sydney Harbour, every hour, you can only wonder what it must look and sound like. In the late afternoon sunlight, the contrast of the red cliffs in sun and shade is quite simply, just beautiful. 

Sunset in the gorge.

Boarding the dinner boat.

In total there are 13 gorges. The further up you go, the narrower they become, and at this time, nearing the end of the dry season, the water level is pretty low. On our tour, we do the first gorge, then disembark and walk across 600 metres of path, to reach the second gorge, where another boat is ready to take us up the second gorge. We see freshwater crocodiles, and traps for the dangerous saltwater crocodiles, and lots of bird life. On the walk we see some Aboriginal Rock Art, dated at 10,000 years old! As the sun sets, we return to the first gorge to be met by our Dinner Boat, complete with white linen table cloths and waiters in long black

Sunset in Katherine Gorge.

aprons. The tables are set with fine china and glassware, and

Ready for dinner.

you think, hang on, we are in the middle of nowhere, how can this be happening! There is an on board chef, and the main course choice is wild barramundi with a pesto sauce, or BBQ'd fillet steak, served with a beautiful fresh salad. We are handed a glass of bubbly and shown to our table and meet Mark & Jenny, a couple of Darwin locals away for the weekend, and we spend a wonderful evening of excellent food, wine and company, as the sun slowly sets on the gorge. Would you believe that David and Jenny came from Leichhardt, about 2 kilometeres from where we lived in Lilyfield! David is a doctor, working in the Darwin Hospital casualty dept. as well as for Care Flight. They have been in Darwin for 18 months, and love it. We shared life stories, and as the gorge became dark, the spot lights were turned on and the gorge came to life again. The lemon ginger creme broule for dessert was a wonderful finish to an amazing experience that will last with us forever.

Springvale Station.

The local Flying Doctor's first plane.

For our last day we took in a little of the history of the area, at the wonderful little museum, and at nearby Springvale Station, one of the first cattle properties in the district, which is now a rustic caravan park and tourist attraction. We were a little taken back by the presence of a saltwater crocodile trap in the lake in the middle of the caravan park. The caretaker nonchalantly told us that they think the croc has gone back to the river. I wonder what they told all those backpackers camped along the bank of the lake!!!

We've had a wonderful time at Katherine. Darwin is firmly in our sights now, but first we head to Kakadu National Park.