Wednesday, March 6, 2013

The Big Wet at Port Macquarie.

We are so sick of the rain, that I spoke to my old friend Noah, who has made us a really good offer on  a used Ark that's only done one big trip, and he reckons all the animal smell has gone after 2000 years! We are considering the offer as I write.


Cabins at the Caravan Park.
Actually, as I put fingers to keyboard, the sun is shining, or that is what we think it is. Today in caravan world, all the annexes are open and the air is full of damp smells, as everyone is airing flooring, annexe walls and countless towels. The laundries are full, and I bet Mr. Tightwad Manager is ruing the fact that he didn't get those washing machines and dryers fixed when we all asked, because now the sun is shining and all the washing and drying is going into the laundromat in town!!

This is a great location for a caravan park, down beside the breakwall, and only a short walk to the town centre and also to the beach. It is full of beautiful Norfolk pines, but since our last visit some two years ago, it has been poorly maintained and looks the worse for wear. Many of the caravanners have been before, and it is a hot topic of conversation. The manager and BIG4 should be doing something about it, before the patrons start voting with their feet!


Flood debris on the main beach.
For those that don't know, the north coast has had an unbelievable battering over the past 2 months. Towns like Grafton and Kempsey have had  some of their worst floods on record, and have been flooded two and three times, just in that period. We spent an extra week in Coffs Harbour, due to the fact that the highway was cut at Kempsey for 6 days, and then only opened via a bypass route, unsuitable for heavy vehicles (over 20 tonnes). The six o'clock news stops reporting the event once the floodwater has peaked and the last car has been washed off a bridge, but ironically, that is when all the hard work really begins. All around this area are inland seas, and sodden ground, where livestock will need to be rescued and relocated. You can only imagine the issues confronting farmers for weeks ahead.


First Coffee & Cake stop.
We arrived in Port Macquarie last Thursday, as mentioned, a few days late. We were met by a little ray of sunshine in the form of our friends Robyn and Margaret, who had arrived on the Wednesday, and were staying in one of the caravan park's riverfront cabins. This was a planned visit, except of course for the weather! They arrived in the sunshine, but it didn't last long! Carolyn of course made them wait until we were fully set up, before they could do the grand tour of the new caravan. Tour completed, we settled in for happy hour. Robyn is a seasoned campaigner on her third tour, but newcomer Margaret showed what a fast learner she was, arriving with local Cassegrain Wine. Over a glass of that delicious wine, we heard how the girls had visited the winery and had been given the grand two hour tour. Having seen the stash of wine they had in the cabin, I can see why they got the grand tour! However I am still puzzled by what Robyn, a non drinker, can do at a winery tour for two hours? She must have finished up with pockets full of cheese and crackers! Dinner that night was at Chateau Relaxeau II, where the hosts served Moroccan Lamb Cutlets served with a warm salad of Sweet Potato, Roasted Tomatoes, Pine Nuts with a honey vinaigrette dressing. It was yummo, washed down with one of those Cassegrain reds.


Cassegrain Winery.
Friday morning, in steady rain, we headed off for a day's sightseeing. After three minutes and twenty eight seconds, we reached our first coffee stop. This was a new record for shortest drive to a coffee spot, and I was completely unprepared for this stop as it was not on the itinerary!! Still, I dutifully turned around and parked at our riverfront cafe, which given the height of the river, was almost river front and back. Still the coffee was excellent, and it was another record, as I have not previously shared a single muffin between four people! Judging by the look on the waiter's face, neither had he! I said, "don't ask to split the bill!!"


Clearing the landslide near Comboyne.
We continued on our way towards Wauchope, and our first destination of the day, Ellenborough Falls, which is one of the longest single drop waterfalls in Australia. I was quite excited, as we usually visit famous waterfalls following the driest spell in 20 years, so the prospect of seeing a waterfall in flood, seemed worth the drive. By now the rain had started to pelt down. As we climbed up the range towards Comboyne, we could see the evidence of recent land slides. We soon came across the workmen clearing away the red mud, and washing down the roadway. We drove through the quaint little village of Comboyne, but nothing caught the eye to entice the girls from the car, so we continued on. The turnoff to the falls saw us onto dirt, actually mud, for the last 19 kilometres. There were farms with cattle, and a number of macadamia nut plantations, and even though the hills were shrouded in mist, the scenery was pretty spectacular. By the time we got to the falls car park, the rain was even heavier.


Ellenborough Falls.
Margaret & Robyn at the falls.
Margaret searching for leeches.
Fresh landslide near the falls.
Even without opening the doors, you knew you were at the falls. The noise was deafening, but the sight was worth it. Robyn saw the sign to the base of the falls, and the three girls headed off down the slippery path in the pouring rain. I waited in the car to call the rescue helicopter! I heard them coming back over the sound of the falls, which was really something, but soon discovered that all the noise was as a result of someone finding a leech. Actually all three of them were covered in leeches of all sizes. Robyn was obviously the tastiest flesh, and bled the best. Lucky she's a nurse! We all had to agree that the sight was worth the drive and the blood sucking!

The drive back down was even more treacherous, as the road had turned to a river. There were more landslides, and I was glad to reach the bitumen road again at Comboyne. We took a slightly different route home, heading for the poet's village of Kendall, and a lunch stop at a cafe called Beetroot'd, as we were all now famished and desperately in need of quarter of a sandwich, assuming we would be sharing! Well we found that Beetroot'd was in fact that, and now went under the quainter name of Miss Nellie's Cafe. Nellie and her mum looked the goods (never trust a skinny cook!), in their pretty little aprons, and the food smelled great as well. Sharing was not an option! Once Carolyn got over the fact that soup was not on the menu (Carolyn craves soup when the weather turns wet and misty), we all ordered tasty goodies off a good menu. The food was terrific, and when we went in search of some of those wonderful looking home cooked sweets, that were weighing down the front counter, we were immediately pushed towards the individual lime cheesecake, "our signature dish". So we all got autographs and can herewith add to the legend of Nellie and her mum, and the lime cheesecake! We finished off the drive back through Laurieton, North Haven and Lake Cathie, before arriving back at base. Dinner that night was served at Chateau Relaxeau 11, following the obligatory happy hour drinks, during which time another leech hitch hiker was found and dealt with! The menu tonight was Roast Chook served with Carolyn's delicious oven roasted vegetables. Perfect for a wet, miserable evening. That night we all slept nervously, not because of the thrashing that Margaret had given us at Scrabble, using all those medical terms that no one else knew, but fearful of finding another dreaded leech!

Strawberry picking at Ricardoes.
Scones with Jam & Cream.
Saturday morning Robyn & Margaret headed out for a little retail therapy. The economy of Port Macquarie is now much improved. The weather had gone from worse to worser, so we opted for a visit to Ricardoes Tomatoes and Strawberries. Wow I hear your all saying. But this is a bit of an icon around these parts, and well worth a visit. It is a very impressive hydroponic farm. Their motto is don't get screwed by the big supermarket chains, value add and sell direct to the public. The tomatoes and strawberries are so full of flavour, and they have a shop choc full of value added pasta sauces, jams, chutneys and so much more. And the best thing of all, it is all undercover, including the pick your own strawberries. Of course there is a cafe, and it is very good, the specialty being scones with cream and home made strawberry jam. AND, praise the Lord, Halleluleuh, they had soup!! You guessed it, tomato soup. So Carolyn did her excellent tomato soup, I did the pumpkin scones, whilst the girls did the plain ones, and all agreed it was excellent fare.

Flooded road to Crescent Head.
Robyn, land surfing at Crescent Head.
After brunch, and loaded with goodies, we headed up the road to Crescent Head, one of Australia's iconic surfing locations. The rain just kept pounding down, and the roads were just above water level, and in fact in one location there was a traffic control in place as half the road was flooded. So the trip to Crescent Head was quick, to ensure we would make it back! The ocean was brown from all the flood water, and the pub and cafes were full of of soggy surfers with sad looks. Robyn did a little land surfing, and so as to ensure the day wasn't a total loss, we did what all true surfers do when you can't surf, we headed for the bakery for a pie and sauce!!

The Koala Hospital.
Feeding a little orphan.
We made it back through the flooded roads, and headed for our last stop on the days tour. The Koala Hospital. Entry is free, which is really clever, because when you get amongst those cute little sick bears, you just feel so guilty and start dropping coins in donation boxes and buy up big in the shop! It was feeding time at 3.00pm, and we got an enthusiastic volunteer guide, who gave us a rundown on how the hospital does its work, all with no government assistance ( can we give some boat people money to the koalas Julia?). They do an amazing job, and if you can make it through the presentation without feeling some emotion, you should be feeling for a pulse! We met one little guy who had been hit by a car and had a back leg amputated and was blind in one eye. He is one of the best climbers at the hospital, and will never be released back into the wild, which is what happens to most of them when recovered. It was a truly lovely experience.

Break up Party at the Town Green Pub.
That night we decided we needed a break up party at one of the local pubs. Happy Hour tonight was at the girls cabin, where John served cocktails, Mojitos, pre prepared  by Mr Dan Murphy. We headed for the pub we booked at, which was really quiet, and decided to quietly relocate to the pub next door which was really bopping! The Town Green Inn, served us up a nice feed in bright surroundings with friendly staff, and proved a good choice for our last night.

Sunday morning dawned like every other morning, bleak and wet, and Robyn & Margaret came over for a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, to sustain them on their journey south to a somewhat sunnier Sydney. We waved them good bye, and as is usual when visitors leave, we felt a little flat, so sat down with the Sunday papers and reflected on a lovely few days with friends. 

Robyn retires after 30 years as a midwife.
Happy Retirement Robyn. Hope you enjoyed your first taste of retired life!

They'll all be missing you already!!!

See you again soon.

For us, we have another three weeks here, to hopefully soak up some sun and catch up with some more friends who live in this area.